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WHAT’S ON
“Did you know you can use the BMC RAD app to navigate to the parking and then to the crag? Make sure you favourite the crags you go to most. And be sure to check before you go to have the latest info on restrictions, crag access, and more in these fast-moving times!
ACCESS BRIEFING
www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-rad-app” Rob Dyer, BMC access & conservation officer
KENT: Southern Sandstone
“It was saddening to see most of the year’s competition season cancelled due to coronavirus and we hope the athletes have managed to stay sane and strong during lockdown. We’re working hard to see if we can make any of the competition events happen later in the year – please follow us on social media to get the latest updates. We’ll send out the news as soon as it’s confirmed. Thanks for all your patience and for everyone’s efforts in these unprecedented times.”
Zoe Spriggins, competitions programme manager
For more competitions see
www.thebmc.co.uk/competitions
Many of the crags in this area are seeing vastly increased numbers of visitors during the Covid-19 crisis, which as well as resulting in crowded crags, is also taking its toll on the fragile rock in places through sheer numbers of people using holds. Climbing on damp sandstone has hugely accelerated erosion of some key holds with alarming changes having happen recently, particularly on boulder problems where moves are being worked repeatedly. Give the crags a miss if it’s been raining or the rock is even a little damp, make sure you read, understand and follow the BMC Sandstone Code of Practice and if you see others not following good practice have a friendly conversation with them and point out how they can improve in a positive way. Finally, have alternative plans and if the crag or parking are busy head elsewhere.
LEICESTERSHIRE: Cademan Rocks
Access for climbing has not been formalised and could be withdrawn in future if the issues around poor parking, litter and damage to walls that have emerged during Covid-19 continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. Check the RAD for full details, but make sure you park without obstructing other traffic, take all litter (including litter you find) home with you and don’t climb over dry stone walls or camp at the rocks or in vehicles nearby.
PEAK DISTRICT: Raven Tor ALL IN THE NUMBERS: 40,500
Are now subscribed to BMC TV on YouTube! We’ve been busy churning out bags of new content and also uploading some classic films like Stone Monkey! Check it out now:
www.youtube.com/teamBMC
72 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.
Van camping and bivvying at the crag is strongly discouraged – it is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents, the National Trust (landowners) and fishermen who share use of the area. For the sake of maintaining good relationships with these groups and ensuring continued access, please do not park or bivvy overnight here. Toileting at the crag also has the potential to generate access problems if climbers don't ensure we minimise our impact. If you are caught short, don't head off into the bushes. Instead make the very short trip to Millers Dale where public toilets are available. If you can't wait that long, carry a 'wag bag' with you and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This iconic crag and its surroundings deserves better than to serve as an open air toilet when much more reasonable options are available.
SOMERSET: Cheddar Gorge
The summer season is now in play in the Gorge which means there is no access to the south side of the Gorge below Reservoir Walls until 1 September. The north side of the Gorge remains open year round as always. Check out the Cheddar Climbing Access Map on the RAD for full access details throughout the year.
NORTH WALES: Yr Wyddfa/Snowdon and Llanberis Pass
This is likely to be extremely busy and parking will be
severely limited. Is now the best time to visit this area? Police will be taking a very strict approach to illegally parked cars (including towing away any cars that may be causing an obstruction or are illegally parked). If walking to the summit on these busy paths, please be considerate and give way to other walkers and do not linger on the summit. Maintain the 2m distancing.
NORTH WALES: Tremadog
The café car park is not available as the operators are currently trying to offer a drive through service for the café and regulations stipulate that they cannot also operate a car park. Toilet facilities are also not available for the same reasons. Parking at Craig Bwlch y Moch is severely limited and roadside parking creating an obstruction will be dealt with by the police. Consider if this is the best time to visit here? Alterative parking can be had in laybys towards Tremadog village and then walking back to the crag (just over a kilometre).
NORTH WALES: Castle Inn Quarry
The main car park is closed due to rockfall issues and the climbing areas partially closed for the same reason. Please use the alternative car park for Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve and follow the advice on BMC RAD using the website or app. Do not park on the approach roads and do not hog routes or top rope directly through the belay bots.
NORTH WALES: Great Orme
The Marine Drive is now open and parking can be an issue around the Parisella’s Cave area. Please be considerate to the buses that also use the Marine Drive. All of Mayfair Wall is closed until the end of July due to nesting birds. The descent gully to Lower Pen Trwyn is now very eroded and extremely slippery and great care is required. Consider using the grass slope closer to the Toll House.
The annual school holiday ban on climbing above the Marine Drive (no climbing before 6pm) comes into force on 15 July on all routes above the Marine Drive. Bouldering is not affected.
NORTH WALES: Llanddulas Caves
Do not park in the residential areas below the crag but park further down (20 mins walk) by the beach road.
MID WALES: Pembrokeshire All areas are open as usual – the Castlemartin Army ranges are subject to the usual weekday closures due to military training and live firing. Also, there are likely to some new restrictions due to nesting birds in unusual places. This will be indicated by signage at the car parks and cliff top signs. All campsites remain closed and overnight stays in camper vans or similar are not permitted.
SOUTH WALES: Gower, Southgate area
There have been parking issues here but it’s hoped that the National Trust will have opened this car park by 6 July. Do not park in residential areas or in front of houses on the approach roads.
LATEST ACCESS UPDATES
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