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IN GEAR


home training


PETZL OSCILLANTE | £14.80


These mega-gadgets are essential for hangboard calibration (the process of adding or removing weight in measured increments). Take a 2.5m piece of old climbing rope, make a foot-stirrup at one end and tie a small loop-knot (eg figure-8) in the other end. Attach the Petzl pulley in the middle and connect it to a clipping eye on the beam below your hangboard. You now have a superb and highly versatile system for making sure your training is always at the right level.


petzl.com


BEASTMAKER 1000 AND 2000 | £80


I don’t think the average climber realises just how much thought and expertise went into the original Beastmaker boards. They are over a decade old yet they haven’t been surpassed. The founders, Dan Varian and Ned Feehally, are just so masterfully understated – not only are they two of Britain’s best boulderers, they came up with methodology to accompany their boards that revolutionised fingerboard training around the turn of the century (I refer specifically to the process of finger removal for calibration). Some coaches have said that all you need is a simple rung but personally I think there’s more to it than that.


beastmaker.co.uk


THE POWERFINGERS | £26


Most common climbing injuries are caused, either directly or indirectly, by muscular imbalances, and in particular by weak forearm extensors. As such, these rings represent the best £30 (or part there of) that you will ever spend on your climbing. Other brands exist but I’d advise going for models that enable you to increase resistance, cut the reps and train strength, as opposed to pumping away for endurance for hours on end. Use them a minimum of twice a week for 15 – 20 mins and after a few weeks you will be amazed at how much more resilient and less tweaky your elbows and fingers feel.


thepowerfingers.com


LA SPORTIVA SKWAMAS | £145


It was always thought that high-performance climbing shoes would never be genuinely comfortable and also that aggressively down-turned shoes wouldn’t work for smearing. That was until the Skwamas came along. The only problem with these shoes is that you’ll want to wear them for everything, not just for training but for most types of outdoor climbing.


lasportiva.com


OSPREY TRANSPORTER | £85


These packs have a sleek, urban look. You can take them into business meetings – laptop and all – and then do the Clark Kent routine when you tear out your shoes and chalk-bag and unleash yourself on the wall!


ospreyeurope.com FILTH STATION | FROM £68 MURA ROC BRUSH | £7.50


Available in climbing shops Great on rock and plastic, sublime on wood, not so good for your teeth. A must for keeping the friction up when the chips are down.


A versatile and affordable home-training system, which is quick and easy to assemble and can be customised to a large degree. Simply screw your own choice of holds, hangboards and campus rungs (not included) into the T-nut placements. It comes in both door mount and free-standing versions and I went for two mounting boards. If you set two mounting boards. If you set the mounting boards on different sides of the uprights then you can create a step-system, meaning that there is enough clearance for you to ‘campus’ between them. There is also scope for suspending TRX straps, stirrups and so on. I was impressed by how stable the Filth Station is, for a free-standing rig, and I've found mine really useful for training outdoors. Of course, you could always make your own but the question is, would you? The Filth station comes all set to go


so you can get down to the training.


www.climbingwallservices.com/shop/training- boards/the-filth-station/


12 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.


WHAT THE PRO TAKES:


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