DESTINATIONS ng light a travelweekly.co.uk


li Al Amareen directs his green laser pointer into the clear night sky. “And that?” he says, outlining the seven


stars that make up the Big Dipper. “That’s Ursa Major.” It’s only 8pm but a blanket of stars is already twinkling above us. I’m in awe, not only of Al Amareen’s knowledge, but also of the peace I feel in the heart of the Jordanian desert. I’m spending the night at Feynan Ecolodge, an


off-the-grid boutique property tucked between the sandstone and granite escarpments of the Dana Biosphere Reserve. It looks like a spectacular sandcastle, with candlelit hallways and staircases adding a cosy feel. Outside, Bedouin shepherds herd scores of goats down from the surrounding hills. “We learn about the stars and seasons from our


parents,” Al Amareen explains. Later, he wheels out a high-powered telescope to shows me “one last thing”.


“That’s Saturn,” he says, with a wide smile. I gasp at the clear sight of the ringed planet more than 800 million miles away and feel a wave of emotion as I blink back tears. What a place.


CHALLENGING TIMES Despite such extraordinary experiences, Feynan Ecolodge – and many local businesses across Jordan – are facing a hardship they’ve not felt outside the pandemic years. Since the conflict between militant group Hamas and Israel broke out in October 2023, and the devastation that has since unfolded in Gaza and neighbouring West Bank, tourism has plummeted. While British arrivals dropped by 31% in 2024, anecdotal evidence suggests that, at times, global arrival figures fell by as much as 70%. A country that was once working to prevent overtourism now faces the challenge of convincing the world it’s safe to visit.²


27 NOVEMBER 2025 JORDAN | ESCORTED TOURS


A nosedive in tourism has been devastating for Jordan’s communities – but things are finally looking brighter, reports Karen Edwards


27


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