DESTINATIONS BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA | ESCORTED TOURS
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Intrepid Travel fam trip group in Pocitelj; dining at the home of Bosnian Cooking Lessons; Pliva waterfall in Jajce PICTURES: Shutterstock/Boris Stroujko; Annapurna Mellor/Intrepid Travel
only the beautiful scenery of this part of the Balkans, but also the incredible experiences, historical sites and encounters that are unique to it. In Sarajevo, an absorbing walking tour takes in its tumultuous history, from its 15th-century founding as an Ottoman city to its current mix of communist-era and post-war architecture, via a pretty old town featuring a bazaar filled with wooden stalls, cafes, domed medieval buildings and picturesque mosques. The tour’s focus is unsurprisingly
the city’s horrific siege from 1992-95, but 21st-century Sarajevo is characterised by its joy and resilience. Eating at Restaurant Inat Kuca – an atmospheric Ottoman house filled with intimate nooks and crannies – or drinking in some of the city’s great bars like Jasmina, heaving with friendly locals and even friendlier bar staff, we’re surrounded by Sarajevans who are looking to a future filled with hope.
CULTURAL NOURISHMENT Our hosts that evening, Mustafa and Mersiha, are living embodiments of
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33During a convivial and laughter-filled evening, we learn much about what life was like during the siege
that hope, as they show us how to make burek (a flaky pastry pie) and serve up a traditional home-cooked meal in the hills overlooking the city. During a convivial and laughter- filled evening, we learn much about what life was like during the siege, their experiences of living through it both uplifting and sobering. Their thriving company, Bosnian Cooking Lessons, is just one that’s benefited from Intrepid workshops and USAID’s commitment to helping travel and tourism businesses with everything from marketing and health and safety to branding, training and general advice.
Over the next few days, we encounter many more. The small-town of Jajce, with a magical waterfall in its centre, showcases history’s evolution from medieval times to the current day with catacombs, a 3rd-century Persian Mithras temple, ancient mosques and two lakes that are perfect for kayaking, swimming, hiking and cycling. With input from Intrepid’s workshops and USAID Turizam, its branding is helping put it on the tourist map. A unique opportunity to encounter hundreds of wild horses roaming free across 60 square miles of the beautiful Kruzi Plateau in the foothills of Mount Cincar will hopefully reach a wider audience via adventure company Continental Adventure, which takes us for an unforgettable off-road safari and picnic lunch in a mountain refuge. Another very different type of
facility to have received assistance is Ark D-0, a preserved and underground nuclear shelter from the Tito-Yugoslav era, filled with art associated with the country
NEED TO KNOW
E Traditional food is centred around meat, but cheeses, salads, dumpling dishes and meat-free variations on burek do offer some vegetarian options.
E The country’s climate varies, with mountainous regions, a continental temperate climate in the north, and more Mediterranean temperatures in the south. Advise clients to pack accordingly.
E Indoor smoking is still allowed in Bosnia and Herzegovina, so bars and even restaurants can be smoky. Most offer outside areas in which to drink and dine, though few offer smoke-free zones.
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E Most people you’ll encounter will speak some English, but learning words like ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ will endear you to everyone you meet.
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