DESTINATIONS ANTARCTICA | CRUISE
EYEWITNESS ACCOUNT
I don’t know which direction to look next. Humpback whales have been spotted up ahead, with their sleek, black backs like the Loch Ness Monster as they slowly surface with a puff from their blowholes – so close that we can feel the warmth of their breath. As they descend to the icy
ABOVE: Sightings of penguins on Antarctic voyages are common, but always exhilarating PICTURE: Nacho Canepa
of conditions in different seasons,” says assistant expedition leader Chris Garwood, who has been exploring polar regions with passengers since 2015. “No two trips are the same, but each offers the best cross-section of wildlife and landscapes. Most people visit once during their lifetime, so we want to give them the best experience – but we also have loyal customers who return again and again.” He adds: “Photographs never do Antarctica justice: the variety and intensity of the wildlife, the enormity and silence, especially when kayaking. It’s a place without people – which is one thing to imagine, quite another to experience. It’s almost spiritual, not just a holiday. For something special, post-retirement or a big birthday, Antarctica delivers.”
DYNAMIC FLEXIBILITY Back on board, I meet cruise director Daniel Turner, who jumped ship from larger cruise lines in favour of a smaller, newer operator – and Atlas, which began operations in 2021, fitted the bill. “It’s not as corporate, so I have more influence on guests’ experience, sorting daily programmes and music,” he says. “I connect with guests and make friendships as the face and voice of the ship. We have an ultra-attentive team; you remember not just the place but also the people.” There is plenty of planning and preparation behind the scenes, says Captain Augusto Neto, but navigating the polar regions means having to be ready for anything.
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“On small ships, there’s flexibility in the itinerary,” he says. “Each cruise is different – last year we got the ship next to the ice shelf, so people disembarked directly onto the ice. That was thrilling and unexpected.” Staff captain Tomás Rito adds that when orcas and humpbacks are spotted from the bridge, they announce the sighting to passengers, often prompting a mass exodus from the restaurant. “Dynamic is a very good word for Antarctica – it’s always moving,” he says. “People see whales breaching and leopard seals eating a penguin, close up, then they go back to enjoy their fine dining and amazing views.”
TRADE TALK Atlas Ocean Voyages sells exclusively via agents in the British market and saw its UK revenue rise 37% year on year in 2025. Kathryn Waites, cruise connoisseur for Panache Cruises, is on the ship to learn more. She says: “It’s mind-blowing. You see photographs and watch programmes, but in real life it’s something else. “My highlights were humpback whales breaching close to our Zodiac and seeing orcas from the ship. The polar plunge is exhilarating too, and kayaking through icebergs was a wow moment. “I’ve been impressed with the service, food, crew and expedition team. Atlas is so informal and relaxed; people even wear slippers around the ship.” She agrees that the Antarctic is worth the travelling time and costs, because it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience. “It’s everything I hoped for and more.”
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depths, we wait for the classic tail fin, or fluke, to emerge. Then our Zodiac guide spots more humpbacks behind us and minke whales to our right. As fellow passengers capture the memories on camera, I pause to absorb the pristine majesty of the towering glaciers, mountains and icebergs and the sheer diversity of wildlife around me – from penguins to petrels, sturdy seals to tiny krill. It’s like being in a David Attenborough documentary, only it’s real, close-up and all the more magnificent.
BOOK IT
Atlas Ocean Voyages’ 10-day Ushuaia Roundtrip itinerary starts from £10,264 per person, based on two sharing. Includes domestic flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, transfers, excursions and all food and drinks, based on a November 8 sailing. Excludes international flights.
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16 APRIL 2026 39
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