3


OF THE BEST


dishes and drinks


local


GRAGNANO PASTA The self-styled pasta capital


of the world, Gragnano is said to have produced the Italian favourite since the mid-fifth


century, always served perfectly al dente thanks to its content


of high-quality durum wheat. It was the first place to dry pasta rather than serving it fresh, dubbing it ‘oro di Gragnano’ – the Gragnano gold.


POMPEII PIZZA


Italian food doesn’t get much more traditional than pizza – it was even enjoyed


by the people of Pompeii, if a fresco recently uncovered by archaeologists is anything to


go by. Restaurant La Locanda della Canonica, which has a


hefty pizza oven that had to be airlifted in by helicopter, has


recreated the 2,000-year-old dish from Pompeii in a pizza topped with walnuts, lemon zest, olives and anchovies.


AMARO This herbal liqueur was


traditionally produced by monks for its medicinal


properties and as an extra source of income for the monastery, creating an


after-dinner digestif with an earthy, bitter taste.


FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS From the moment we arrive at the Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel – which was part of the Minor Hotels-owned NH Collection until a refurb in 2023 saw it pass to sister luxury brand Anantara – it feels like a quiet enclave set apart from the always-busy Amalfi Coast. Set on a steep cliffside surrounded by terraced


vineyards and terracotta-roofed buildings jutting out into the Gulf of Salerno, it’s clear why the order of Capuchin monks who built the first monastery here in 1213 chose this scenic spot as their home. We announce our arrival as visitors of old once did, with a heavy clang of the Mulattiera bell used by guests travelling along the mule path to alert the monks of their approach. We check in to see how the friars’ former cells have been transformed into spacious luxury suites, though still featuring their original stone walls and arched ceilings, all overlooking the sea. In fact, almost everything comes with a side of sea


views here, from the small infinity pool and outdoor gym to fragrant orange and grapefruit groves amid a kitchen garden that grows mint, basil, lavender and plump, sweet tomatoes used in Dei Cappuccini restaurant’s sumptuous Caprese salad. That’s not forgetting the rows of trees heavy with


Amalfi’s famous lemons, world-renowned for their unusual size and sweetness. These make their way into everything here, including the creamy lemon delice dessert and even the lemon-infused oil and locally made La Selva Positano scrub used in the spa’s new Citrus Massage Experience.


46 16 JANUARY 2025


TALK OF THE TOWN The property also offers unbeatable views over Amalfi, the town that lent its name to this rugged coastline. We stroll down the steep path into its buzzing centre in the presence of Friar Marcus (pictured, previous page), a German-born Franciscan friar based at a monastery in nearby Ravello, who lends his services to the hotel to lead tours and meditation sessions with a twist. “He’s the most important person in the hotel,” says


general manager Estelle Vassallo. “The guests love him. He’s a walking encyclopedia. A lot of experiences are related to him because he represents the convent – it makes sense that you walk around a monastery and see a friar.” Dressed in his traditional habit, he takes us from the


Passage of the Monks, a pergola-covered walkway draped with bougainvillea and 100-year-old fig trees, down a steep, step-filled path into the town. He seems to be a bit of a local celebrity, going by the number of people who stop to update him on


BOOK IT


Classic Collection offers five nights at Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel from £2,219, based on two adults sharing a Deluxe Sea View Room on a B&B basis, with Wizz Air flights from Gatwick, hold luggage and transfers, departing April 2. Weekly yoga sessions are held in spring and summer free of charge, or €145 for a private hour-long class. classiccollectionagents.co.uk


travelweekly.co.uk


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