ASIA SOUTHERN THAILAND DESTINATIONS T
oo long overlooked in favour of Thailand’s glittering islands and sultry northern mountains, the provinces of Ranong and Chumphon receive only a handful of western tourists each year. But, with the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand gently lapping the eastern shores, what they lack in fame they more than make up for in good fortune. Here powdery white beaches lie empty and the water is so clean that whale sharks live on the reef. Within an hour’s drive of the coast, you can be exploring mountains and rainforests resplendent with wildlife. Plus there are hot springs, rivers
and waterfalls, as well as a rich seafaring heritage that has left a unique cultural mix evident in everything from the sumptuous seafood to the language and dress. Best of all are the people,
unwearied by overtourism, who are delighted to welcome visitors to their homeland: whether you’re sharing a hot spring with Thai ladies in shower caps, or they are teaching you how to make a local dish. It’s no secret that in Thailand
there is a problem with overtourism. Airports are being built in Chiang Mai and Phuket to cope with the ever-increasing influx of tourists. Meanwhile – following an example set by
Best of all are the people, unwearied by overtourism, who welcome visitors to their homeland
the Philippines in Boracay – the government has closed Maya Beach (of Leonardo DiCaprio’s The Beach fame) to tourists. But these southern provinces reminded me of the
Thailand my parents took me to more than 30 years ago; life seems different here.
w ON THE WATER Pause: Take in the sweeping views of the surrounding ocean, mountains and rainforest from the top of Ranong’s lighthouse. Such is the proximity to Myanmar that it also doubles as the local customs and immigration office. Step down onto the jetty
below to board the Royal Andaman, a traditional wooden junk, where a refreshing lychee cocktail awaits. Lined with mangrove forests bowing to the ocean, we take a route once travelled by the king in
2 August 2018
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