STOPOVER PANAMA CITY A Man, A Plan, A Canal, Panama.
Despite its turbulent past, Panama continues to thrive. Its capital city lies on the Pacific side of one the narrowest points of the isthmus – just 48 miles between Panama City and its sister coast on the Caribbean Sea. The skyline is thoroughly modern, with new skyscrapers being built to keep pace with a boom in investment. Agriculture, trade, tourism, financial services, logistics – Panama City is an economic and financial hub.
Since the 1500s, the Spanish, French, English, and the Americans have all wrestled for control of Panama’s land and natural resources. Scandal, corruption, and dictator Manuel Noriega have marred the political landscape at various points. But Panama’s tumult is also part of its charm; a place where grit and grace are close companions.
WHAT TO SEE Nowhere is Panama’s reputation for rising from the ashes more evident than in Panama Viejo – the original location of Panama City. In 1671, Captain Henry Morgan (yes, the Captain Morgan on your rum bottle) attacked in search of gold. In a valiant, and some would say misguided, attempt to save the city, the local general evacuated everyone and set fire to the gunpowder
repository. The town burned to the ground. The ruins are worth a visit, especially the Cathedral Tower, from whose top you can catch a beautiful view of the city. Visit in the afternoon after the tour bus crowds have dissipated.
Panama City was rebuilt a mile or so to the west in San Felipe, also called Casca Antiguo or Casca Viejo. Devote several hours to getting lost in the romantic alleyways and cobblestone streets in this part of the city. The atmosphere is a bit historic New Orleans with a little slice of Havana. After hours, the drowsy old quarter turns into a raucous party, with music and people spilling out from restaurants and bars. Locals mix with fashionable travelers and the growing ex-pat community to enjoy the nightlife.
There is no better way to announce a city’s arrival on the world stage than with a Frank Gehry-designed museum. The Bio Museo is a brightly colored jumble of a building located across the Amador Causeway. The causeway, built from rocks unearthed by construction of the Panama Canal, connects three little islands – Naos, Perico, and Flamenco. There is a huge marina here and a lengthy boardwalk where you can rent bikes, jog, and take in the sunshine. The Biodiversity Museum is unlike
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