32 DAIRY has local support


The choice of pasteurization method also aims for a fresh, high- quality product. Rather than the two high-temperature methods common at large plants, the vanBovens opted for batch pasteurization, a slower, low- temperature method. “That helps to retain the taste and the good enzymes in the milk. The goal is to get it to taste the closest to raw milk as you can,” says Margie, adding that glass packaging protects the milk’s taste. “We thought that was the way to go.” Cowichan Milk currently


processes two batches of milk a week, less than 20% of the farm’s production. Products include 2% and 3.8% homogenized milks, as well as a 3.8% cream-top (non- homogenized) milk. Coffee cream is possible once sales of its 2% milk give it enough excess cream. The initial demand has been encouraging. Sales at the farmgate, home deliveries and a small allotment to grocery stores from Mill Bay to Chemainus prove there’s demand for local milk even thought it’s more expensive than what larger dairies offer. “The Cowichan Valley is very


supportive of local food,” says Margie. “Many stores contacted us first. They’re very appreciative of their farms and they like to support their farmers.” Now entering its third month of sales, the venture seems to be


COUNTRY LIFE IN BC • DECEMBER 2019 nfrom page 32


paying off. “It provides enough of an income so that we can support having two families on the farm,” says Margie. “[It] keeps the farm viable so we can stay working, and our son can have a full-time income.”


The vanBovens’ daughters Amy


Pullen and Amanda VanWingerden are also involved, handling social media and assisting in the plant, respectively. But milk sales also build


connections with consumers. While the vanBovens often welcome farm tours, a glass of fresh local milk offers a memorable taste of local agriculture. “We need people to know a little bit about where their milk comes from, the farmers who make it, why they do it, the love they have for it,” says Margie. The price reflects that. While the costs of running a small-scale operation in a high-cost location like Vancouver Island factor into what consumers pay, the profits also go back into a local livelihoods – supporting a farm that chose to evolve in place rather than sell out. “We’re just trying to crank out a


All in the family: The vanBovens' daughter, Amanda Van Wingerden, helps process Cowichan Milk Co.'s products. AMY PULLEN PHOTO


top-quality product that’s healthy, and it comes at a price,” says Ben. “We’re passionate about dairying. To hear the community saying, ‘We love your milk,’ that’s very rewarding.”


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