LIVE 24-SEVEN
Wye Valley asparagus with smoked potato velouté and burnt leek powder. Fragrant and the right side of heavily flavoursome, it was balanced with a Seresin Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough, 2013.
Adrian and I loved the bavette tartare with pickled daikon and confit egg yolk. Dressed with coal oil (oil poured over hot coals and left to infuse) it was served with a slow cooked egg yolk. The pickled daikon added the right weight of punch to the dish, as did the delicious beef fat breadcrumb. A fabulous Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Stellenbosch, 2016 was the perfect partner to the dish.
Each course was as exquisite in its presentation as it was in taste. The creativity has to be admired, as the chef uses every opportunity and resource available to him to maximise what a single ingredient can do. Take, for example, the monkfish with cauliflower and crimson grape; the monkfish is brined in salt solution and then cooked in yeasted butter. The cauliflower is served in several ways, to include a purée where the cauliflower is cooked in brown butter and finished with yeast, and cauliflower florets which are pan-fried and finished in the oven with foaming butter. Equally the Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne, McLaren Vale, 2016 selected to accompany it was first class.
Adrian loved the Ryeland lamb with wild garlic and smoked anchovies. The lamb loin had been brined in wild garlic solution then air-dried for eight hours before cooking. The Hasselback Jersey Royals cooked in lamb fat and an exquisite black garlic purée sits superbly with this dish. Possibly his favourite wine of the evening, the Château Gironville, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, 2011 was refreshing and enhanced the flavour of the lamb.
Textures of strawberry, rose and lychee formed a breathtaking start to the dessert aspect of the men, paired with Once Upon a Tree, Blenheim Superb Ice Cider 2015, a surprising, but delightful choice which I very much enjoyed. Equally as delicious was the white chocolate delice with pineapple and malt, served with Araldica Moscato Passito, Palazzina, Italy 2012.
Possibly the best taster menu I have ever enjoyed, it was thoughtful, exquisite and presented beautifully – testimony to the journey that chef Bruce has travelled and the start of what promises to be a very special journey with Swinfen.
The Hall is committed to its dining experience; great bedrooms are one thing, but ensuring the restaurant is a must visit time and again is important to the hotel’s reason for being! Growing their own ingredients and sourcing the rest from the very best externally forms the backdrop to the story of the Swinfen kitchen, as does its own deer park, which provides the kitchens with venison during the winter months. As well as estate-reared venison, Swinfen also has a small flock of rare-breed Manx Loaghtan sheep and a gourmet night featuring Swinfen hogget is planned for early September..
Waking in the morning we drew back the heavy curtains and were greeted by the sun rising over the deer park. A sumptuous breakfast and borrowed wellies from the Hall reception to enjoy a stroll around the grounds, the perfect way to complete our stay.
From fine dining, fabulous weddings and romantic weekend breaks to spectacular gourmet nights, Swinfen has so many reasons to visit. Take a peek at the website to see what is coming up and for restaurant opening times.
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www.swinfenhallhotel.co.uk Swinfen, Lichfield WS14 9RE Phone: 01543 481494
reservations@swinfenhallhotel.co.uk
LIVE24-SEVEN.COM
WINING & DINING SWINF EN HAL L HOT E L
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