TRAVEL I named


Maresme” in honour of the section of just north


f the TV show “Escape to the Country” was filmed in Catalunya, “Escape


it’d to


where many Barcelonés have second homes. And why wouldn’t they? Here is a beautiful stretch of coastline, alternating between rocky outcrops and golden sand, easily accessible


the Costa Brava of


Barcelona,


city centre via the railway which snakes along the coastline.


from the I chose the little


Sant Pol de Mar as a base, 90 minutes by train from Barcelona Airport. With my jaunt falling just


town of “independence declaration,”


first question I asked my landlord was whether as a visitor, I needed to be concerned. His answer was as I expected. Apart from the widely reported demonstrations in the main cities, the issue is seen by most residents of Catalunya as a topic for (sometimes heated but generally constructive) discussion across the family dinner table over a glass of wine. Sant Pol itself is unspoilt with some cafes, restaurants, bakeries and delicatessens. The


after the recent the


include the Michelin-starred Sant Pau (sadly closed during my visit) and the family run Chiringuito, Banys Lluis, purveyors of an exquisite paella, best accompanied by a bottle of


Bages wine. Watching the sun set at


Mar, with the peace broken only by an occasional train, was thoroughly enjoyable.


taking in the church and the museum of Lace-making. Finally, make your way to the port itself for a spot of lunch at the Restaurant Els Pescadors La Llotja. Freshly caught fish cooked to perfection, excellent value and surrounded by locals.


restaurants


If you want to sample the nightlife or some more touristic activities like crazy golf, jump on the train to Calella five minutes north. Outside the main holiday season, however, it is not all bad. I whiled away a few hours walking along the beach path between the town and its neighbour, Pineda de Mar, taking in the latter’s Friday morning flea market.


the local Pla de the Club Nautic Sant Pol de


Canet de Mar is a bustling town one stop south of Sant Pol. Home to the architect, Lluis Domenech i Montaner, much of the town’s modernist architecture is his work and can be analysed in a museum dedicated to him. Arenys de Mar is a working port, which makes for a lovely afternoon strolling around the old town, following the signs for the recommended walking route


After a few days relaxation and good food on the coast, catch the train inland to explore a city too long simply written off as Ryanair’s airport for Barcelona. Lively Girona is the capital of its own province and is a worthy destination in its own right. It is also a gastronomic melting pot and will wow foodies, regardless of budget. Start the experience by building up an appetite with a stroll through the old town and the University, up past the cathedral and the Basilica to the castle and the architectural walk on the old city walls. The views are magnificent.


truly 40 When responding to adverts please mention the ‘North Devon Insight’


To wind down afterwards, cross the river and find a table at one of the bars in the Placa de la Independencia to watch the world go by for an hour or so.


Regular readers may hazard a guess what’s coming next. The reason for my visit had necessarily been booked 11 months earlier: dining at the former World’s Best Restaurant (at


it’s number 3), the Roca Brothers’ outstanding El Celler de Can Roca. I’m not going to give too much away, but the


the time of writing,


courses showed skill and brilliance. The highlights for me were the green olive ice cream and the langoustine with sagebrush, vanilla oil and toasted butter.


thirty separate the be


Extravagant? Yes. Fun? Yes. Accomplished? Yes. Worth it? Definitely.


I initially wrote those words to describe the restaurant. On reflection, and with the exception of extravagant, it also neatly summarises my


Catalan expedition. Richard Jones


entire northern


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