eating out
SAPORÉ
Chef and owner, Brad Auerbach, has a long history with great food. From his East Coast haute cuisine upbringing to long cold nights on commercial fishing boats, Chef Brad cooks from the heart and his dishes reflect this passion and his commitment to hospitality. Brad’s culinary style is one reminiscent of authentic Italian, seafood and unabashed East Coast bravado. His restaurant, Saporé, is a culmination of his myriad experiences and stands alone with his particular style of cuisine.
Saporé is the Italian word for “flavor” and I was lucky enough to try one of his off-menu specials that featured all the beautiful flavors of the sea, “Squid Ink Pasta,” or Pasta al Nero di Seppia as the Italians would know it. Long black strands of al dente pasta, served with grilled cuttlefish, lobster roe, New Bedford sea scallops, cherry tomatoes, a touch of cream and saffron butter. Needless to say, it was absolutely delightful! Originally hailing from the Island of Sicily, squid ink pasta has become somewhat of a cult status foodie food. If you know
it...you know it (and love it!) and, Saporé’s version would make any Sicilian proud. It’s important to note that Saporé specials change daily depending on the chef’s
by billy nordmeier
inspiration, so be sure to ask your server when you dine about anything not on the menu. I guarantee, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. The chef team has even been known to cook a special dish by request, as long as the right ingredients are in house. It’s kind of like being in the home of an awesome family member. While seafood is undoubtedly a strong suit for Saporé’s chef team, they are also masterfully highlighting flavors from the garden. Take a bite of the restaurant’s Roasted Beet Salad and you’ll see ‘saporé’ in spades: Roasted Ruby Beets, marinated cucumbers, crumbled gorgonzola lightly dressed in a raspberry vinaigrette. Fresh, delicious and perfectly San Diego seasonal. There’s a certain hedonistic charm in a chef owned and operated restaurant. The whim of being able to cook and create what you want when you want, it is a luxury many restaurateurs envy. So often, restaurant operators are constrained by corporate mandates or shareholder opinions, but not Saporé. This family- owned establishment is one of genuine creativity and inspiration.
ALL THE RIGHT FLAVORS
Take the Zuppa di Mussels, Chef Brad saw these beautiful mussels at one of the local San Diego purveyors and put it on the menu the next day! Naturally sweet, the mussels sit in a slightly tangy tomato broth and the dish really lets the seafood speak for itself.
Another of my newfound favorites is their Seabass In Padella. In Italian cooking, “In Padella” literally means, “in the pan” and the chefs at Saporé use this technique to their credit. Perfectly al dente pasta is added to a hot skillet with a touch of butter, moscato wine, raisins and pignoli (pinenuts), sautéd until the flavors start to marry and then sauce over a lightly breaded seabass filet. Molto delizioso! And, not to be outdone, a number of proteins other than seafood are a strong culinary focus for the Saporé team, from the choice ribeye to the veal striploin there’s something for every consumer’s dining denomination, herbi, carni or omnivore. To complete the meal, Saporé’s homemade desserts knock it out of the park. These aren’t listed on the menu and for good reason, they change with the season and with what’s freshest available for Chef Brad to find. Currently, one of the star desserts is a Rich Chocolate Cake in a Passion Fruit Broth, with a dollop of Vanilla Bean Gelato. The cake is dark and dense as you would expect, but the broth is the real treat in my opinion. The passion fruit was picked from the chef’s own garden and his team was able to coax the wonderfully tart and sweet juices, into a nicely balanced cold broth that goes so well with the dark chocolate. The vanilla bean gelato on top pulls it all together with the right amount of
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RAGE monthly | MARCH 2018
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