Fermenting Colorful TRADITIONS


by Artist Aboubakar Fofana, edited by Stefanie Zehnder A


n experienced traveler and textile enthusiast recently said of Aboubakar Fofana, “One look


in his eyes tells you he is an old soul.” The same can be said of his methods, steeped in tradition. Chances are, if you’ve visited the


Santa Fe Folk Art Market in the last four years, you’ve seen the exquisite, organic cotton, dyed with natural indigo and mud that Aboubakar weaves from hand-spun yarn on a traditional West African loom. His unique pieces include a diverse range of naturally-dyed, hand-woven bed and pillow coverings and fashion statements such as scarves and shawls. He learned about traditional West African textiles by traveling around West African countries and speak- ing with his elders. They told him of the green leaves capable of creating a rich blue color, planting seeds in his imagination. From these experiences he began to feel an urgency to preserve the use of indigo and to revive the growth of biological indigo and of organic cot- ton in West Africa, particularly in Mali.


As a result of his commitment to protecting and fostering traditional processes, his production facility in Bamako also functions as a school for indigo-making in that he welcomes out- siders to study with him. His indigofera leaves are grown locally and organi- cally, hand-harvested and dried in the Malian sun. This is the most challenging natural dye technique in the world due to the amount of variables involved in dealing with a living organism—such as balancing the pH, feeding bacteria, right timing, precise temperature and the right balance of ingredients. All of these fragile and intricate factors affect the outcome of each piece. A prolonged soaking of the green


indigofera leaves releases indican, the leaves’ colorless essential ingredient. Fermentation transforms this into indoxyl, sometimes called white indigo. Oxida- tion completes the magic through the alchemical process of mixing oxygen and white indigo which forms indigo blue. Fermentation means bacteria must


12 Northern & Central New Mexico


thrive in the dye vat. Fofana still uses Japanese clay vessels, whose porous walls welcome them. He feeds this precious bacteria honey, bran porridge, crushed dates and mashed banana to make the bacteria healthy and the dye strong. In his hands, the indigofera plant produces twelve distinct shades from faint icy blue to a deep blue-black referred to as “divine sky”. Fofana refers to his work as a “five thousand year-old story of ancient NaturalAwakeningsNNM.com


technology now given a contemporary language.” The intensive demands of the


natural indigo process—from harvest- ing the raw materials to the investment of time needed for the dye process— mean that natural indigo dyeing is not a particularly economically efficient process. Synthetic indigo has widely replaced natural indigo dye throughout West Africa because of its ease of use. The considerable downside is that the synthetic version is a harsh chemical compound that has disastrous ecologi- cal consequences. Fofana’s processes have cultivated an international following, essential for the economical support of his busi- ness. In turn, he is able to provide local employment and invest in his commu- nity in a variety of ways including the preservation and education of this craft. His work has been displayed in venues across the globe.


His “Sublime Indigo” initia-


tive teaches the techniques of textile production and has developed a textile industry in West Africa based on prin- ciples of sustainable development and respect for the environment. His International portfolio has


included such work as creating custom textiles for Urban Zen by Donna Karan, Eden (Bono’s project), product devel- opment for IMC/Egypt, and has been commissioned to create art installations for the Manchester Museum/England and for the Dubai Contemporary Art Expo. In addition his work has been on display throughout the world in muse- ums and galleries.


For more information, visit his trunk show at BODY of Santa Fe, August 8 through 10. Fofana will give a lecture on the impact cottage industry, natural fibers and traditional textile practices have on culture during the reception from 6 to 7 p.m. on August 8. See ad page 3.


Aboubakar Fofana was born in Mali and lived in France for 35 years as a calligrapher and artist. His textiles reflect a deep respect for tradition and an artist’s incredible attention to detail. Visit


Aboubakar-Fofana.com (in French).


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