CRUISING
Clockwise from above left: leaving Teelin with no wind; Sail
Training Vessel Asgard II (sadly lost in the Bay of Biscay
later in the year); approaching Mizen Head, Glendore;
Footbridge to Mizen Head ; view from Dun Aengus.
to Inishbofin. However, fog gusting 5. We concluded that elected to cross Dingle Bay diesel for the first time since
descended just as we arrived. our long passage to Loop Head to Valentia where we spent an Troon. She took less than 100
We were now getting very and up the Shannon was just uneventful night on a visitor’s litres – we had clearly been on
confident with the chart plotter about doable. We’d timed buoy at Knightstown. a sailing holiday so far.
and elected to do a blind this leg to arrive at Kilrush The next day was a fresh Our last night on the West
entrance. It went perfectly Marina on or before high southerly which was ideal for Coast was spent in Dunmanus
and as we got close we could water so that we’d have the sailing out and around Skellig Harbour in Dunmanus Bay.
just see we were right on the tidal stream on our side going Michael with its 1,400 year old Dunmanus Harbour is just an
transit and right up close to up. With up to 4 knot tidal monastic beehive huts. That anchorage with no facilities,
Gun Island (as advised by JT). currents in the Shannon this night we anchored in Bunhaw but we went ashore to explore
Once in the harbour we went was just about essential. As it Harbour on the Kenmare the ‘castle’ and looking back
past the ruins of Cromwell’s was once we’d cleared Loop River. There’s a pub at the end at the boat found it surrounded
Fort, dropped anchor and went Head we had wind and tide on of the pier but beware of the by porpoises.
ashore. Unfortunately it was our side so we literally flew fish farm located right over
a Sunday and the place was up the Shannon. Then we got the intersection of the transits Back on the
packed with day trippers and a special treat of the famous for going in or out. The next beaten track
we began to feel we would Shannon blue nose dolphins, day we headed for Lawrence Once we cleared Mizen Head
have been better off staying at and did they put on a show!! Cove Marina on Bear Island we were in a new world, gone
Clare Island. We spent a couple of nights in Bantry Bay, which meant was the Atlantic swell and we
After slipping through in Kilrush, a delightful little we had to get our tides right were well and truly back on
Joyce’s passage off Slyne town, then headed for Fenit to pass through Dursey Sound the beaten track. Along this
Head we managed to avoid Marina. The marina is only between Dursey Island and the stretch we were shadowed for
the numerous small islands, 5 miles from Tralee and was mainland. Dursey Sound has a few minutes by a customs
the Skerd Rocks and arrived pretty full with local yachts, so tidal streams of up to 4 knots, cutter and passed by the Irish
at Inishmore the largest of the it might be difficult to get into a cable car with 21 metres Sail Training Vessel Asgard
Aran Islands. We went straight later in the year when there are clearance and Flag Rock, II, which sadly sank in the
ashore, hired bikes and went probably more visitors. strategically positioned in the Bay of Biscay later in the
off to the ancient fortress of From Fenit we were to middle of the narrowest part year. We had pleasant stays in
Dun Aengus which offered go to Dingle and visit the of the channel under the cable Schull Harbour and Glandore
spectacular views. famous dolphin, but once car. At Lawrence Cove we before picking up more crew
The next day the winds were around the Dingle Peninsula found a small, friendly, family at Kinsale for the long haul
now back to the prevailing and the Blasket Islands the run marina where we took across to the Scillies, Falmouth
South Westerlies force 4 sailing was so good we the opportunity to top up the and Brixham. ■
88 Sailing Today September 2009
ST149
Ireland_RTG.indd 106 17/7/09 14:49:56
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