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afternoon, and some restaurants don’t open until 9pm
for dinner. our first visit to poros was on a weekday but,
when choosing your quayside mooring, remember that
.
C
O
M
the clubs on weekends are noisy until dawn.
O
l
IA
F
O
T
For relief, epidavros on the mainland is just the

opposite: moor next to a quiet park and enjoy blessed

DEVUN
“No cars or silence at night. And don’t miss epidavros theatre (see
l
ENE
HE
motorscooters below).
©
GE
are allowed on heading back toward Athens on our last day, we
IMA
Hydra, so all stopped at Aegina town, where strings of octopus
deliveries are by donkey convoys that hang outside restaurants to entice diners. Aside from
meander along the quay.” being close to Athens, Aegina is where Zorba the
Greek was written, and it is famed for its pistachios.
also the nautical equivalent of a Greyhound bus station tucking into the Kalamaki marina, we said goodbye
with streams of ferries arriving every few minutes to to thrassos and spent our last night aboard organising
spew teenagers and tourists. our gear. the next morning, there was thrassos to see
no cars or motorscooters are allowed on hydra, us off and make sure our cab driver would take us the
so all deliveries are by donkey convoys that meander short route to our hotel in Athens.
along the quay where you’ll also see pan, the bearded to Moorings power and to Captain thrassos, we’ll
Greco-American who is the unofficial harbourmaster. use one of the Greek words learned during our voyage:
If you spend the night, be sure to walk to the western “efharisto!” thanks! n
point to watch the spectacular sunsets from the
small restaurant while savoring an aperitif. In the
morning, Kostis Bakery on the waterfront has to-die-for
Don’t Miss …
chocolate-filled croissants.
Aegina The Temple of Aphaia (6-5 b c) is a mini-
When it comes to island dining, seafood (including
Acropolis on the northeast corner of the island and
has been called the most perfectly developed classical
octopus) reigns king. Dolmades are spicy meats in vine
temple in Greece. It’s a short cab ride from Aegina Town.
leaves, tzatzikis is garlic-laced cucumber yogurt, and
poros As you approach from the north, you’ll see the
olives come in hundreds of varieties. If you dare, wash
remaining pillar of the Sanctuary of Poseidon (520 BC),
l
O
it down with retsina (white wine mixed with paint who was both god of the sea and island protector. To

JAHI
remover), and ouzo is diluted with water and sipped.
explore, take a cab from town.
From hydra we cruised west seventeen miles to Epidavros Not to be missed is the superb Epidavros
:
S
ANDER
spetses, detouring to explore a quiet bay at Dokos and
Theatre, a 2,400-year-old Greek amphitheatre that still
.
C
O
M
T
O
another cove (thrassos swore us to secrecy about its
hosts an annual festival of classic dramas. Hire a taxi on
the waterfront for 30 euros (the driver includes waiting
OCKPHO
location) where the water was so clear we could see
an hour at the site). Drop a coin or rustle a script on the
;
i
S
T
the bottom more than 60 feet down. stage and someone sitting in the last row of the 14,000
O
M
.
C
spetses also has no cars but motorscooters are rife
seats can hear it clearly. Included in the admission are a
l
IA
museum and the ruins of Askeplion, a temple of healing.
F
O
T
O
on the pebble mosaic promenade and streets. Known

Get there early to beat the tourist buses.
for a female admiral who helped rout the turks, spetses
A
l
ON
hydra The museum on the quay not only celebrates
ll

VI
is covered with pine trees and the town is dotted with
ancient times, but also the more recent heroes: 19th-
large homes from the trading days when prosperous century Hydra shipowners who sent their fleets to defeat
c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p :
ship owners called the island home. Moor far back at a
the Turks who occupied Greece for 400 years. If you’re
G
;
RICHARD
Poros Town is
quay in Baltiza and you’ll be surrounded by shipyards
feeling athletic, hike up to the monastery of Profitis Ilias
lively at the
for a spectacular view and hand-woven fabrics at the
T

WEINBER
still building fishing vessels of pungent pine.
weekends;
nearby convent.
HORS
Greek fisherman
From spetses, we retraced our wake to poros, where
Athens Since you’ll fly in and out of Athens, save a day
©
we discovered that Greece is all about time. A Greek
GES
prepares his nets; or two to see the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, and the
IMA Spetses coastline. morning lasts until one, then lunch and a nap until late many ancient ruins in the area.
MAY 2009 YACHTWORLD.COM 31
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