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restaurants unsullied by tourists, gave us a running
lecture on island history, and showed us his private
swimming coves. not only was he a charming
companion but, when we returned from exploring
ashore, it was to a boat that had been washed down
and polished. Best of all, he handled the sometimes
tricky Med-mooring process with a practiced
certainty. And, with a captain, there is no
“When it comes to island
insurance or security deposit.
dining, seafood reigns
one evening a few days after our arrival,
king. Dolmades are
I was sprawled on our flying bridge in a
spicy meats in vine leaves,
between islands are
quiet cove among the islands, gazing at the
tzatzikis is garlic-laced cucumber
short, and we chose the
brilliant stars dotting the black sky. suddenly
yogurt, and olives come in hundreds
tiny fishing village of
I wondered if a Greek sailor, perhaps on the
of varieties. If you dare, wash it down
perdica on the island of
verge of sailing into the battle of salamis
with retsina (white wine mixed with
Aegina for our first night.
against the persians nearly 2,500 years ago,
paint remover), and ouzo is diluted
We were just 20nm
had watched these very same stars from
with water and sipped.”
from Athens, yet the
this cove and hoped he would survive to see whitewashed buildings
another night. and winding streets were ageless. the Greeks have
one of the pleasures of bareboat chartering in the four names for the west wind but, whatever they call
Greek Islands is that the history of ancient civilisations it, we had it in buckets that night. tucked behind the
is everywhere you look, anywhere you moor. Greeks, quay with the fishing fleet, we spent a rolly night and
romans, persians, turks – this is the land of homer, were ready to leave early for poros, just 12nm distant.
Aristotle, plato and sophocles. In an amphitheatre built poros is on a narrow passage next to the mainland,
more than two millennia ago, we stood on marble steps so don’t be surprised when huge ferries slide past just
worn smooth by the sandals of the toga-clad men who feet away from your mooring. It was pleasant dining in
conceived philosophy, law, mathematics, astronomy – the cockpit in the evening as tourists and locals strolled
indeed, the very civilisation that we now know. the quay, and we had a frappe (a chilled Greek coffee)
When Greece recently allowed bareboat chartering for dessert at one of the tavernas that set up tables
and Moorings power opened a base at Kalamaki, it on the waterfront. Later, I went ashore to nearby Café
was an irresistible opportunity to explore centuries of remezzo, which offered hot showers for three euros,
legends among the saronic Gulf islands that are close which brings up a point about our boat.
to Athens, yet a world apart. For our time machine, we european boats, like our Jeanneau, are built for
chose the Moorings power 362, a French Jeanneau- european tastes. Americans may find that showers are ;
built 36 ft flybridge cruiser with two staterooms and smaller and staterooms are a bit tight. our boat was
twin Volvo penta diesels. impeccably maintained and, though two seasons old,
experienced Caribbean charterers will find the Greek seemed brand new, but American charterers need to CIE

islands different for several reasons. First, there aren’t keep an open mind when it comes to space. our yacht
as many coves so you’ll spend most nights tied stern to had a double berth forward with limited dressing area,
the quay in a small village, where you’ll shop for fresh thrassos staked out the twin cabin to starboard, and
c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p
food daily rather than stock up in advance. second, the we all shared the smallish head.
l e f t :
terrain is different, with silver-leafed olive and cypress From poros we cruised another dozen miles
The clear waters

trees covering the rocky hillsides along with groves to hydra, which has remained almost the same
of the Aegean
Sea; the Temple F
of lemon. Because of the antiquities, scuba diving is since Greek triremes moored in its amphitheatre-
of Aphaia on the

restricted to certain areas and snorkellers won’t see shaped harbor. hydra is memorable for blindingly
island of Aegina;
tropical fish, but they may catch a glimpse of an ancient whitewashed homes (Greek white with blue doors)
Hydra Town;

vase (amphora) untouched for thousands of years. climbing a hillside colored by bougainvillea, but it is Epidavros Theatre. IMA HORS
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