Setting Out I arrived in Cameroon and set out to fi nd Lake Edib. It took me fi ve days. T e fi rst three days were spent on the back of a motorcycle-taxi as it wheeled through red mud. When the roads came to an end, I paused in the small village of Muambong. It was my last chance to resupply, hire a guide, and have one fi nal hot meal before heading into the bush. T ere, I met the chief and was off ered a bed


for the night. T e chief chose one of his favorite hunters to act as my guide. T e young man insisted I call him Star Boy. Together, we made plans for the trek. We


resupplied as best we could and purchased ground cassava, sugar, and peanuts. T at’s about all that was available. It would be our only food for the next week.


T at night, the chief invited me for a


traditional feast. We ate the tribe’s most popular meal. It is called Mpoop. It’s made by mixing plantain fl our with tadpoles. T e mixture is pounded into a paste and then wrapped in a cocoyam leaf. It’s steamed until it turns into a pudding-textured ball. I had my doubts about Mpoop, but wanted


to show my respect to the chief. I spooned a large serving onto my plate and started eating. I’ve eaten a lot of weird stuff in my life, but this may have been the strangest. I fi nished my plate, smiled, and thanked the


chief. He exclaimed, “You must love Mpoop, Mr. Joe! Let me help you to some more.” Lucky me! Another mound of Mpoop was scooped onto my plate.


Two of Cameroon's crater lakes lay side by side.


ADVENTURER 21


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