Clockwise from left: Fresh chamomile is found near many blocks of Jordan cabernet sauvignon grapevines; Chef Knoll searches for manzanita tree berries; medicinal tule grass is harvested along the west side of Jordan’s lower lake; antioxidant-rich manzanita berries.


Along the lower lake across from the cattle pasture, tule grass, which was used by Native Americans to make shelter, rafts and baskets, is found interspersed with waterline cattails. Knoll harvests the cattails at various times throughout the season, from the tender shoots used in spring salads to the beautiful golden pollen collected in the fall from the male flowers, which may be incorporated into an olive oil cake.


“It is vibrant and floral when used in baked goods,” Knoll says.


The wild food found in the greatest abundance on Jordan Estate is the acorn, a Native American staple. Labor intensive to process, the shelled acorns must be ground, leached of their considerable tannins by numerous changes of water and then dried into a flour. Following these steps, Knoll is rewarded with a unique, native flavor profile to enhance pastry and grain dishes.


Emerald green pine tree buds that sprout in spring in a forest near a Jordan olive grove are ground with homemade sea salt (see recipe on page 29). The medicinal qualities of pine are revered across the world; the tree’s buds are considered immune system boosters due to their high amount of vitamin C.


Because most of these plants grow naturally, Knoll accepts that nature is in charge, that volume and quality will differ from year to year.


Another staple of the native diet, mushrooms are found throughout the region. Fungi usually sprout in the spring after months of wet and chilly conditions, but every spring is different. Knoll says 2018 has been an incredible mushroom season because burn zones are famous for yielding vast quantities of morels after wildfires (see “Understanding California Wildfires,” page 12).


“They’re called ’burn morels,’ a rare delicacy that results from wildfire,” Knoll says. “They peak the second or third year [after the fire], and then they begin to taper off.”


In this sense, he notes, foraging is completely different from grape growing, as very little about the former is predictable, and there’s little opportunity to cultivate specific species in specific ways for specific ends.


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