However, I was very interested in learning more about the French-bred horses. According to my research, the SF has been very successful
in show jumping as well as eventing, dressage and combined driving…but naturally it was the show jumping that caught my attention. Funnily enough, the SF is usually either bay or chestnut, and was originally a mix of several French riding horses and often includes blood from Arabians, Anglo-Arabs and French Trotters. In 1958, they were merged to create a unified sport horse, the Selle Français, and since then they have won medals in the Olympics and the World Equestrian Games. That sounded good to me! There is no better place to find the SF, and all things
equestrian, than the Loire Valley. Known as “the garden of France,” the area is steeped in history: there are fabulous flying machines invented by Leonardo da Vinci, centuries-old graffiti carved by imprisoned Knights Templar, and breath- taking son et lumiere shows projected on the sides of fairy tale castles. And let’s not forget the countless statues of the country’s most beloved heroin, Jeanne d’Arc, mounted on a gorgeous steed of some sort, either standing regally or galloping over the top of the defeated English, immortalized in every church and square. Being an equestrian and horse lover, this trip was all
about les chevaux. So after 24 hours in Paris, we jumped on the TGV fast train, covering 150 miles in an hour, to tour the region and the horses for a few relaxing days. We checked into Chateau de Pray, a castle turned hotel that dates back to the sixteenth century. We dined like royalty in its Michelin- starred restaurant, starting the meal with a goat cheese and asparagus appetizer, sampling cheeses (Brie de Meaux, Morbier, Roquefort, and a vari- ety of St. Maure de Touraine chevres). We finished off the meal by sharing a blackberry soufflé that tasted as light as air! The next day, after a delicious light as air pain au choco-
lat and café au lait, we headed off to Saumur. Famous for its gardens, wines and horses, this town is a must on any eques- trian enthusiast’s itinerary. En route, I spotted many bays, chestnuts and greys, and even one paint, alongside Thelwell- type ponies and an occasional donkey grazing in the fields. The medieval town of Saumur has a myriad of châteaux,
more than 60 churches and the largest monastery in Europe. But most importantly, it is steeped in equestrian history. It’s home to the country’s elite mounted cavalry unit, the Cadre Noir, and the famed riding school Ecole Nationale d’Equitation, also the headquarters for the French Eques- trian Team. In town there is an equestrian museum, a cavalry museum, carriage rides, tack shops and saddle and boot makers, which all reflect the influence of the horse through history. Passing by a McDo’s (McDonalds), I was shocked to
28 November/December 2015
see two bays and a chestnut standing in a paddock in the park- ing lot. Turns out they were not real, but even local fast food joints are into the equestrian mood.
Cadre Noir First thing on our morning agenda was a training performance by members of the Cadre Noir, where riders study to become certified as instructors and to ride professionally. The French are very serious about education and equitation, and not so long ago George Morris, the king of equita- tion, was presented with their highest honor—the golden spurs that are the Cadre Noir’s emblem. We arrived to find busloads of eques-
trian enthusiasts cuing up for the show. We quickly found our seats and sat wide- eyed as a two- or three-year-old SF was long-lined by a member of the Cadre Noir. I’m not sure who was more impressive, the trainer— resplendent in black breeches, jacket and cap with polished black tall boots and those signature golden spurs—or the lovely bay gelding putting in perfect circles, figure eights and serpentines. It was remarkable, especially when the young horse, from a standstill only a few strides away, casu- ally jumped a 4-foot oxer and landed quietly, awaiting the next command. The precision and the rapport between the human and horse were incredible to see. I was enthralled. Next was more groundwork, with a female member of the
Cadre Noir running behind and beside a handsome buckskin, which we assumed was a SF (not bay or chestnut, so we were not completely sure). Together they performed classical dressage movements, swapping leads on command and canter- ing in place. Next came six horses who were asked to perform synchronized airs above ground, including the courbette, the croupade and the cabriole, with riders both on the ground and mounted. To top it off, these war- inspired movements were ridden without stirrups. There was a precision dressage routine to music, a vault-
ing performance and then it was time for the jumping! I’ve jumped thousands of courses during my showing career and seen some interesting obstacles, but nothing like this. After placing a dinner table in the center of the chandeliered
Left: Chateau de Pray, a castle turned hotel where Alex stayed. Right, top to bottom: Saumer Castle located close to the Cadre Noir. Alex and her mother Linda stand in front of an impressive statue at the Cadre Noir. A lovely young buckskin horse that demonstrated work in hand.
Photos from France on the next three pages are by Alex and Linda Ladove.
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