The team in the kitchen at the White Oak in Cookham, including chef patron Clive Dixon (centre). Dixon has been there since 2012
The emphasis is on working as a team C
live Dixon, chef patron of the White Oak at Cookham, has travelled a long and sometimes winding road through the higher echelons of modern British
cooking. Having started out at Lords of the Manor and then Hunstrete House, which both achieved Michelin stars, he has had a number of lead chef positions, including working with the legendary Pierre Koffmann at his epon- ymous restaurant in the Berkeley Hotel. He has been at the White Oak since 2012 and considers it one of the most satisfying businesses he has run. The
emphasis is very much on working as a team. From the front of house to KP, everything is focused on the food and every member of the team is fully briefed on the ingredients and dishes of
the day. Enthusiasm for what’s delivered on the plate is infectiously transferred to the guests and there’s a sense of excitement and anticipation that per- vades the White Oak style of hospitality. As Dixon says, “What gets me up in the morning is the search for the fresh- est and fi nest ingredients of the day.” He is also absolutely clear that while his skill and passion is cooking, the business he is in is hospitality. Having been to the White Oak several times this year, I can bear witness to the fact that his vision is delivered with pas- sion by every member of his team.
the food speak for itself’ seems very much the way forward.
Why it works better when it’s simpler If you talk to the chefs who are leading this trend, they will tell you that rely- ing less on presentation and focusing more on food quality and freshness is a more satisfying discipline. It is worth remembering that in Medieval times, the invention of many sauces was caused by the need to mask less than perfectly fresh food fl avours. The simplifi cation that is occurring in
many Michelin starred establishments is echoed throughout many less formal restaurants. It seems to me to be a satisfying trend both for the diner and for the team operating.
ISSUE 4 2014 © cybertrek 2014
And it makes business sense Anybody who’s in hospitality knows that the key cost factor and the key manage- ment stress is all to do with the staff. With the right team and everything working harmoniously, a restaurant positively beams with satisfaction and success. Too few staff and everything grinds to a halt. Too many for a par- ticular meal occasion and everything gets cluttered and clumsy. By focusing on simpler service and more straight- forward food, the need for extraneous staff and fussy activities is reduced.
In tune with the times
More and more restaurants in even the swankiest hotels have a very relaxed dress policy. Front-of-house
staff tend to be more informally attired and an attitude of all being one com- munity rather than ‘them and us’ is much more prevalent.
These are egalitarian times and food
service and restaurant presentation is fi tting in with the fashion.
Which brings me back to Marcus As I said at the beginning, I think even Marcus at the Berkeley is refl ecting this trend for a simpler way. The new res- taurant features a very much simpler style of greeting and front-of-house ser- vice. The food is also served plated up in a much simpler way. What hasn’t changed is the quality on the plate. Go there before they get bored and go back to being haughty! ●
Read Leisure Management online
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PHOTO: MARTIN WILSON
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