RESTAURANT REVIEW


All mixed up


There’s a reason why chefs don’t combine certain ingredients, but the kitchen at Taychreggan seems to have forgotten it WORDS CATE DEVINE IMAGES ANGUS BLACKBURN


Clockwise from top left: Confit salmon; glazed slow cooked pork cheek and sticky ribs; cod with hand dived scallops and crispy chorizo; looking onto the former 18th-century drovers’ inn; purple fig tarte tatin with chocolate soil and vanilla ice-cream.


remotest Argyll. So we settled in, the warmth of the welcome embracing us cosily on a stormy Sunday night. Then we realised the price did not include


I


any wine. Instead, a bottle of Chilean chardon- nay (£20) or cinsault (£35) were suggested. This red-or-white predicament felt wrong, and we started to long for a tasting menu where each course was paired with a different, carefully chosen wine. Thankfully, there was a wine list which we pondered, stomachs rumbling, in the


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t sounded so promising: a five-course set dinner in one of the world’s most romantic dining rooms, overlooking Loch Awe in


bar. We’d been holding off any snacking, you see, in anticipation of the feast to come. Imagine our consternation, then, when the


canapés arrived: one single little anchovy on a sliver of cracker, and one single roasted chicken wing on top of an incongruous horseradish sauce. Oh, and a little pot of olives. This seemed mean in the extreme. We tussled over how to halve the canapés between us fairly – impos- sible. Why not just give us two of each? Then, at the table, a huge platter of different


breads appeared. One was an onion and blue- cheese affair, another was a streaky-bacon wholemeal and a third… well, frankly, I didn’t


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