12 The Alambic - how the grapes of Gascony become Armagnac
It’s a great honour to be asked to watch the alambic, the process by which the grapes of Gascony are turned into Armagnac, the world’s best brandy.
Mary Shepherd visits Baronne Jacques de Saint Pastou’s ‘Domaine de Rebert’
www.armagnac-saintpastou.com
Recently, in the square at Monguilhem, we joined a cavalcade of cars and trundled along the narrow lanes of the Gers, for a couple of kilometres, before turning into a track between fields of vines.
This area is known as the Bas Armagnac, the other areas being Haut Armagnac and the Temereze. We had been invited to learn about the culture and production of Armagnac in one of the finest domaines of the region, that of Baronne Jacques de Saint Pasteur.
We were warmly welcomed by the Baronne and Pierre, one of his sons, who, contrary to his disclaimer, spoke excellent English. We were taken straight to a demonstration of pruning. I found this very useful for my vineyard, which consists of five vine plants. The different types of vine used to make the Armagnac were explained. All domaines differ slightly in the vines they grow, which together with soil and prevailing weather lead to variations in the product. This being a very old vineyard means that some of the vines are highly prized old varieties. The gardeners among us (at least half of the group) all rushed forward to receive a cutting from an ancient vine variety, which can be struck in sand without need for grafting. Concerns, not serious, were voiced by Pierre that we might set up in competition.
Buoyed by this fantasy, we were taken into the Chai (pronounced shay hereabouts). Within this ancient wooden barn, stood a splendid copper machine, which I can only describe as a prototype for Stephenson’s rocket. During the period of the alambic, the brewing phase of the Armagnac, this machine will be performing night and day, watched over by its loyal team of vintners. Slightly fermented grape pulp is fed
into the top of the machine, heated by wood earlier and now by gas. Much of the grape juice runs off as water, as the liquid is condensed to increase its density.
After some complex processes a thin stream of pure colourless liquid emerges, with an alcohol content we were told, of 50%. We were actually allowed to sample a few drops before being taken into another barn, its wood darkened by many years of Armagnac evaporation. Here, large oak barrels, of uncertain age sat silently, maturing the Armagnac, some of which is so old that it was around before some of us were born.
We emerged, blinking into the golden October sunshine to taste the finished product and to partake of some wonderful juicy barbecued duck hearts, another Gascon delicacy.
The Armagnac was smooth and delicious. We were encouraged to try samples of varying age, a 1965, a 1970 and a 1985. As the 1985 was 45% by volume as opposed to the 40% of the other two, we treated ourselves to that. There were other equally enticing products, including a caramel textured aperitif, which easily gives Baileys a run for its money. A wide selection of duck products, including foie gras and some very tasty rillettes, all at reasonable alambic prices, provided another buying opportunity.
Then it was back into the barn, where tables were laid for a splendid feast. To our amazement, yet another glass of Armagnac was waiting for us. It made a suitable accompaniment to the foie gras. Much wine was then consumed with the succulent magret du canard. After apple pie, coffee and more Armagnac nectar, we took our leave, feeling that all is right with the world, particularly in the Bas Armagnac.
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