food INDEX Quail wrapped in vine leaves with braised borotti beans


You should be able to fi nd vine leaves in any of our larger local supermarkets


Serves 4 Ingredients


For the braised borlotti beans 350g dried borlotti beans, soaked overnight, then drained 435ml dry red wine 1 small onion, fi nely chopped 3 cloves


3tbsp olive oil 1tbsp chopped rosemary 3 garlic cloves, crushed Pinch of chilli fl akes 3tbsp chopped parsley 4 rosemary sprigs


For the quail 4 quails


2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons soft brown sugar 8 large vine leaves, preserved in brine


Method 1 To braise the borlotti beans, put them in a large saucepan, add the wine, onion, cloves


and 875ml water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes.


2 Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small saucepan. Add the rosemary, garlic and chilli fl akes and stir over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, or until fragrant. Add the mixture to the beans and simmer for a further 45–60 minutes, or until the beans are tender.


3 Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid. Return the liquid to the saucepan and simmer until it has reduced and thickened. Add the beans, season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, then simmer for a further 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley, season to taste and allow to cool for 15 minutes before serving.


4 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Place a rosemary sprig in each quail cavity, then tie the legs together with kitchen string. Tuck the wings behind each bird.


5 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the quails and


fi res and spicy red wine become tantalising. You’ll be missing a trick if you reach for the beef or lamb; autumn means the rich, deep fl avours of venison.


The blessing of venison A


s the damp autumn winds pick up, the lure of warming casseroles, cosy


In the past, venison was


from mature wild deer, whose diet of heather and bark did not make the meat palatable. Sisters, Liz and Caroline Asteraki, who run the east Kent franchise of the Riverford Organic box delivery, offer venison with a better upbringing.


Liz, from Old Wives Lees, says: “It comes from small organic herds reared on West Country family farms, where they graze a natural diet of clover-rich grass. “They roam the land in


rutting groups with a lead stag, and are managed so they have a near-wild existence, without the health issues often inherent in feral herds.” The result is a tender meat that needs only light cooking (though resting after cooking it is important, to make it juicy). It’s lower in fat than a skinned breast of chicken, higher in iron than any other red meat and low in cholesterol and it’s brimming with Omega-3s. The Riverford venison season


To drink As a special offer to Index readers, Liz and


Caroline are offering a free copy of the Riverford Cookbook (rrp £16.99) on the second delivery for new customers only. Please quote COOKBOOK when ordering.


www.riverford.co.uk or 01227 730335. 24 www.indexmagazine.co.uk


cook over medium–high heat for 4–5 minutes, turning to brown all over. Add the vinegar and sugar to the pan, bring just to the boil, then remove from the heat.


6 Blanch the vine leaves in boiling water for 15 seconds. Drain well, then allow to cool. Wrap


a vine leaf around each quail to enclose.


7 Place them in a roasting tin, seam side down, and bake for 10–12 minutes, or until the quails are cooked but still a little pink. Serve with the braised borlotti beans.


runs until late November, so enjoy it while it’s here.


Caroline Asteraki who lives in Westwell Leacon, says: “Painful though it was, Liz and I have researched the best wines for a venison casserole. Our punchy organic Dominio de Punctum Syrah (£9.99) topped the list. It’s robust and full- bodied, with strong red fruit fl avours and a bit of spice. It has a long fi nish and fairly high tannins, but is not over- powering.”


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