travel by joesph schmitt
Back in March you were put on notice to begin planning for Carnaval 2010
in Brazil’s tropical Northeast. Time’s-a-tickin’. While you’re arranging your visit
to the world’s largest outdoor party, you might also consider a side trip to one
of Brazil’s most dramatic national parks. Chapada Diamantina offers a surefire
Carnaval hangover cure with swims in mineral-rich lagoons, hydro-massages
under numerous waterfalls and invigorating treks up scenic mesas and deep
into mysterious caverns. Located 250 miles inland from Bahia’s capital, Salva-
dor, the drive to the small town of Lençóis within the national park is a six-hour
bumpy ride via small towns and rolling farmland. Your queasy stomach may
curse you three hours into the ride, but once you arrive in the quaint post-
colonial town of Lençóis, your inner tree-hugger will burst with excitement.
The best way to explore the park’s natural beauty is with a professional guide,
easily booked through your travel agent, hotel or directly online. I was booked
with a very knowledgeable and gay-friendly man named Jaime Sampaio. We
started off walking through Lençóis, which resembled a 19th century South
American ghost town. “Where is everyone?” I asked, noticing that even many of
the businesses were closed in the early afternoon. “They’re all at the waterfalls
and in the caves,” said Jaime, assuring me that later at night the town would
come to life. Our light hike out of town took us past swirling pools of river
water, frolicking sunbathers and confounding rock formations. A light rain fell
as the sun slid behind some thick cloud cover, per norm for the rainy season,
Lennullnulls
which stretches from December into March. We continued our afternoon inside
journey into a nearby labyrinth of twisting natural paths and caves, created by
centuries of water erosion and the excavation of diamonds that brought the Chapada diamantina
first non-native Brazilians to the region almost 200 years ago. Within minutes
national Park, Brazil
we arrived at our first official waterfall, a multi-tiered 40-foot-high oasis of cool
river water cascading into a tranquil amber-colored lagoon. The invigorating
water took me by surprise with its dark hues, an effect of the erosion of the Another beautiful waterfall in the park, a short drive from Lençóis.
colorful rock and clay, heavily mixed with organic decomposition of the local
flora. As I found my way to the base of the waterfall, standing under its cool
force, all my Carnaval-induced aches and pains evaporated, along with the
lingering carsickness from my pothole-infested journey.
Later that evening, after a dramatic thunderstorm and ensuing downpour, I
took to the freshly rinsed cobblestone streets in search of some well-deserved
dinner. This small eco-tourism outpost is a walk-around-and-see-what-looks
good-type of place, meaning there’s no need to bother with addresses and
reservations. You’ll find about fifteen restaurants in town, serving everything
from Italian to tasty churrasco (Brazilian barbecue). As I meandered through
the narrow streets eyeing various eateries and bars, I recalled Jaime’s words
from earlier in the day telling me of how dangerous the city used to be in its
mining days, when murderers and thugs were plentiful here; Brazil’s version
of the Wild West. It’s important to note that while the violence in Rio de Janeiro
and São Paulo often makes the world’s news reports, there is perhaps no safer
town in Brazil than Lençóis.
The next morning I met Jaime again for a full day of exploring the local
natural wonders. Our truck traversed a dirt road for what seemed an eternity
before arriving at Lapa Doce, an elaborate 3,000 foot-long system of caves.
Jaime and I were escorted by a park guide who toted a hand-held butane
lantern, which he lit after a picturesque hike down a lush, dirt path into the
wide opening of the cave. Stalagmites and stalactites of every size, shape
and color slowly flourish here in complete darkness. The damp, cool cave
suddenly came to life everywhere the lantern cast its bright light, reflecting
natural artistic creations, some towering over 20 feet in height and dating
back thousands of years.
At the mouth of the cave, our second guide
Later that afternoon we visited a delicious river located a short hike from the
readies the gas lantern.
64 RAGE monthly | MAY 2009
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112