WIN 9 21/9/09 18:39 Page 46
knowledge winter breaks
ttglive.com
Switzerland
Time to learn
young as four or five swooped confidently
past me, but well worth the shame for the
stunning views, and to get some sense of how
thrilling it would be to ski the entire piste.
on Swiss slopes
The snow fun doesn’t stop when the sun
goes down. After a fondue dinner up at
Roggi’s – a Savognin institution – we
sledged all the way back down the mountain
in the dark, with only tiny head-lamps to
Savognin is not one of Switzerland’s best-known
light the way. Some particularly brave locals
ski resorts but it is an ideal place to learn, says
even snowboard it.
The fun sports are included free of charge
Philippa Jacks, who had a downhill struggle for guests at The Cube, a simple but funky
hotel at the base of the mountain.
M
y first ever skiing session was for a full day’s private tuition in skiing or It is set up perfectly for skiiers, with a glass
much like chocolate and red snowboarding. The sleepy town itself is very “showroom” to store equipment and heated
wine – once I got going, I picturesque, though better suited to families boot-driers in each guest-room. There is a
found it nigh on impossible to than those seeking all-night apres-ski. climbing wall and games room in the base-
stop. I knew how to bend my knees, and I Most of Savognin’s visitors are Swiss or ment, and the hotel has its own nightclub.
could balance fairly well. But the supposedly German, so though English is widely spoken, After a long day on the slopes, guests
foolproof snowplough technique – pointing the menus in some restaurants are in German lounge around the quirky, art-filled lobby to
your skis in towards each other to bring you only. But the tourist board is keen to attract enjoy some warming apres-ski.
to a halt – didn’t work at all. Instead, I the UK market, which spends more, so Steaming gluhwein and a chocolate-
picked up speed at an alarming rate, careered things are gradually changing. And since doused waffle for me, naturally.
sidewards off the baby slope, and landed most dishes are a variation on sausage, you
in a flailing heap on the conveyor belt that can’t go far wrong if you point and smile.
carries you to the top. Hardly the most After my shaky introduction to skiing, I
BOOK IT
graceful skiing debut. gave snowboarding a whirl too, with about
Savognin is not Graubunden’s best-known as much success. I also tried various “fun
Swiss International flies daily from Heathrow, London City, Birmingham
ski resort: the Swiss canton is also home to sports”. These included the Skifox and
and Manchester to Zurich, from £99 return. The Cube Hotel is fea-
some of the most famous slopes in the world Airboard (a snow-going lilo, which can reach tured by Hostelbookers, which pays commission. Interhome also sells
including Klosters, St Moritz and Davos. But 100mph),
self-catering apartments here. Ski Holiday Extras sells transfers to,
Savognin has great slopes for learning to ski, But I most enjoyed the Snowbike, a kind
and ski hire and ski tuition in, Savognin. I hired jacket, salopettes
and boots through Edge2Edge, costing £30 a week. The supplier can
and has more affordable accommodation of bicycle but with skis instead of wheels.
bring them to Gatwick or Heathrow for you too.
and restaurants than the swankier resorts. I took it on the ski lift to the top of the
■
hostelbookers.com ■edge2edge.co.uk
The Swiss Snowsports School has lessons mountain and “cycled” for 45 minutes back ■
graubunden.com/en ■swiss.com
from €28 for a half-day group session to €218 down. It was humiliating when skiiers as
46 25.09.2009
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