A coffee stirrer makes an excellent conduit (above left) for the pushrods. You will only need them between two formers. Sheeting for the turtledeck was done
Insert 1⁄32 vertical grain web between the spars to provide stiffness to the wing. At this point you need to decide if you want the ailerons extending all the way to the tips or if you want them ending one rib bay inward. The plans show both and after
several
flights we both felt it would be better to go with them out to R6. Ending them inboard looks cool, but you need a lot more deflection (drag) ending them at R5. Mark the corners of the ailerons by working from inside the wing, cutting just the corners into the bot- tom sheeting using the ribs and vertical sheet as a guide.
Sand the vertical sheet and ribs so the top TE sheet will not have ripples, bevel- ing at the TE sheet. Attach the top TE sheet. When this is dry, mark the top hinge line corners by carefully cutting from the bottom. Keep the ailerons at- tached until after final sanding. If you have a keen eye you will notice that the plans show a slightly wider area at the aileron hinge line. This was changed after the photos were taken because the cover- ing pulled the hinge line into a scallop. The plans are correct. The wing tips may
in sections. Use of clear tape (above right) instead of pins allows the sheeting to form and cure to the fuselage without any damage.
be made either from 1⁄8 sheet as Michael’s model shows, or with soft blocks. With the major components all shaped, it is now necessary to fit them together. The fit of the fin to the fuselage should be verified, as well as the flatness of the stabilizer saddle in the fuselage. You may need to carefully re- move some wood from the tail cone, but do not notch the curved portion for the elevator joiner until after covering. I used 1⁄8 birch dowels for wing joiners. They required a few seconds in the hand drill to make sure they were truly round, and to fit the holes in the ribs and fuse sides. Adjust the joiners as the holes are to set dihedral and incidence. Changing the holes could change the alignments.
Covering and assembly I covered my Neo with SoLite which added only 3 grams to the airframe weight. My scheme was inspired by an original Tiporare scheme, albeit with subtly differ- ent shades that have a slightly more mod- ern appearance to them. All the compo- nents should be completely covered before continuing assembly.
Remove the false fin spar from the fuse- lage and carefully notch the top to position the real fin. Remove covering at the LE to glue wood to wood. Next, slide the elevator through the stabilizer saddle slot and then the stab. Carefully align the stab and glue it in place using thin CA top and bottom. You may now attach the rudder and elevator. For hinges, I used 3M Post-It page marker flags. I lightly sand the color off, then used a half-width of the non-stickum portion to slide into a slit cut by a #11 blade. A tiny drop of thin CA was all that was needed to lock them in. I used these because they were handy at my desk and I couldn’t find any candy wrappers. Afterwards, Dick Hanson suggested using cereal box liners. After all, those are nearly impossible to tear! If you try them, let us know how it worked. The aileron can be hinged in the same manner. Add your receiver
brick and run the
pushrods for the tail servos. If you are using an AS3X receiver, be sure you mount it in the correct orientation. A new Spektrum AS6410NBL includes gains for the MiG-15, which seem to be perfect for this plane. I just used a Carbon Cub brick that was in my
You can do two things at once. The canopy block is tacked into place for shaping (above left) while the rear turtledeck glue is drying. The last section
FLYING MODELS
(above right) was formed but not glued in place immediately. A small spacer helps the wood retain its curve.
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