NEWS


(34%) and buyer readiness (29%) – the figures were a further improvement compared to both the previous study in 2010 and the competition. The Tamaris retail partnerships are continuing on their successful


course. As of latest, Tamaris is also represented in North America. Two single-brand stores were opened in Mexico City in July. There are currently 723 retail areas (previous year 519), of which 220 are single-label stores and 503 are shop-in-shops. The Wortmann Group, which is classified as the European market leader


in fashionable ladies’ shoes, includes next to the top brand Tamaris also the brands Marco Tozzi, Caprice, Jana and s.Oliver Shoes, as well as Novi Footwear Fareast Ltd. in Asia. Wortmann is represented by its own


companies in eight locations in Europe and eleven more in Asia. With a pair volume of 31.0 million pairs in the fashion segment and 27.2 million pairs in the standard sector, the corporation is one of Europe’s largest shoe production and retail companies. Internationally, Wortmann currently employs a total of 1,028 staff (previous year 978), of whom 593 are in Europe. Around 30,000 people around the world work in production for the corporation from Detmold. More subdued growth is anticipated for Wortmann for the current fiscal


year. The retailers still have relatively high stocks as a result of the poor weather in the last three seasons. Thus the further development remains to be seen.


Richard Kottler, CEO British Footwear Association, reports on the Footwear Show Season


The organisers took the opportunity to launch the new MICAM Shanghai


which takes place in April next year – endorsing the crucial potential to the industry of China, and other nearby countries. GDS Dussledorf continues to develop and is working hard to make the


transition from being a regional (North European) show to a more important international meeting place. The organisers were not helped by a Lufthansa strike that affected


footfall but the majority of the UK participants will return. The BFA British Edition section is in its third season at GDS, providing this year a themed area in the best area of the show for eight up-and-coming brands. Outside Europe, Platform at MAGIC, Las Vegas is the show making the


biggest impact in that market and continues to grow both in size and international reach. It is now ‘THE’ USA show and has a growing number of European brands – most in the mid to premium market. The BFA area (The British Invasion) featured six aspiring brands all of whom took business and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Magic is becoming an increasingly popular venue with UK exhibitors –


partly because it is delivering on its promises and partly because many are seeing the USA as a ‘safer’ market than Europe at present. Despite the proliferation of trade shows it continues to be crucial for


most UK companies to find and work with good quality sales agents or distributors. To help its members down this critical path, the BFA has started a number of initiatives. Nowhere is this more important than the USA with its size and its


uncompromising retail scene. The traditional “Meet the Agents” get togethers are no longer the sole answer: different formats need to be explored including digital portfolio mail-outs, closer liaison with the local UK Trade Commissions and using go-betweens to access the key sales operators in each market. Not easy but essential for the success of exhibitors. Back in the UK, the main shows, such as PURE, MODA,SCOOP etc., had a


difficult season with the timing of the Olympics. They were all faced with the greater negative of an, at best, uncertain retail environment and a shortage of buyers from both the majors and the independents (many apparently spending less time at the shows). The perennial question: Why so many footwear shows in the UK rather than


one powerful event covering the various trade sectors, and attracting key overseas visitors? Unfortunately there are too many vested interests at play for this to happen at the moment, but the prize is surely worth pursuing? But just how do exhibitors make their future choices? They are


As the Footwear Show season staggers to a halt, exhausted exhibitors and buyers alike are taking stock of how it all went. This season’s shows provided an interesting dichotomy: There were less


buyers than usual at the shows, not surprisingly given their various options and the potential cost of attending so many; but maybe more importantly, the buyers who did attend were spending! Business was more buoyant than anticipated, particularly at the major overseas fairs, where the lack of serious buyers from the UK and Eurozone countries was more than offset by keen retailers from the Far East, Eastern Europe and South America. It was also clear that the halo effect surrounding British branded


products (and undoubtedly helped by the Olympics/Paralympics, Jubilee and Kate factors) was strong and a definite pull for buyers across the world. Despite the proliferation of trade shows in Europe, MICAM in Milan


remains the major exhibition. Although there were fewer exhibitors due to economic problems in Italy, Spain, Portugal and elsewhere – with factories closing or not choosing to take expensive stands– the buzz from Far Eastern visitors was palpable and good for the 75 or so UK companies showing there. The new BFA stand was a focal point and fielded dozens of requests for information.


8 • FOOTWEAR TODAY •OCTOBER 2012


increasingly faced with many dilemmas : A growing selection of world wide exhibitions to attend, many of them in new territories; the escalating cost of exhibiting with expenses of to £10,000 a show for an average fitted stand and personal costs; the difficulty in sourcing sales agents or distributors, especially for young/new brands; compounded by decreasing financial assistance from the Government. Recent cuts have reduced the direct help available and this trend will continue. Life for the buyers is also difficult, they too have to contend with the multiplicity of shows and the high costs of attendance. Against a background of grim trading, it is little surprise that they may prefer to take the increasingly attractive option of seeing fewer brands and in comfortable (and less costly) showrooms. There is no straightforward solution to this, particularly when retailing


across the globe is unrelentingly hard and the risks of doing business continue to increase. This is where the role of the BFA continues to be important. Its commitment to assisting its members through this labyrinth and ensuring that they get the right advice on which are the most appropriate shows for their brands to attend is becoming an even more important part of its remit. As is providing the maximum amount of advisory and financial support available.


Richard Kottler CEO BFA


,


British Footwear Association Ltd Tel: +44 (0) 1933 229005


Web: www.britishfootwearassociation.co.uk www.footweartoday.co.uk


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