Guy Woodward, editor of Decanter magazine (www.decanter.com), samples our newest off erings from Australian winery Wirra Wirra ‘Wirra Wirra dates back over 100 years and, much like Australian wine as a whole, the estate’s fortunes have ebbed and fl owed over the
course of its existence. Its reputation for eccentricity can be traced back to its founder, Robert Strangways Wigley. The winery fl ourished until his death, but lay stagnant thereaſt er. Revitalised in the 1970s, today it
stands at the forefront of McLaren Vale’s emergence as one of Australia’s premier wine regions – just as the country as a whole is fi nally being recognised for its ability to produce fi ne, nuanced wines.’
1 2 3 4 5 ‘Wirra Wirra stands at the
forefront of McLaren Vale’s emergence as one of
Australia’s top wine regions’
1.Church Block, McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/ Shiraz/Merlot 2009, £11.99 (75cl) This unorthodox blend of Rhone and Bordeaux varieties could only be found in Australia, and the result is a wonderfully silky wine. The fruit is at the brambley end of the spectrum and the menthol, almost herbal notes off er a savoury touch that the French would be proud of. 2. RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009, £35 (75cl) This is Wirra Wirra’s self-proclaimed ‘icon’ wine, and the price tag refl ects this. Made from the grapes of older vines, the wine has a distinct concentration to it, off ering a mouth-coating richness and fl avours of creamy forest fruit pie. 3. Dead Ringer McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, £35 (75cl)This wine is known as ‘Angelus’ in Australia, in homage to the bell that is rung to mark the start and fi nish of each harvest at Wirra Wirra. The renowned Bordeaux chateau of the same name had a prior claim in
Europe, hence the ‘Dead Ringer’ epithet. This has a juicy, mouth-watering quality to it not always linked to Cabernet. Very moreish. 4. The 12th Man, Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2008, £16.99 (75cl)After years of being ostracised, Australian Chardonnay is back in fashion. Gone are the buttery, vanilla-laced oak bombs of the past, replaced by fresh, linear examples. Ironically, The 12th Man is something of a throwback (it spends nine months in oak) but the result is integrated and round without being blowsy. The creamy tinge is accentuated by four years’ ageing. 5. Woodhenge McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010, £18.99 (75cl)The label describes this as ‘big and bold’, but compared with many Australian Shirazes, there’s a welcome freshness to the crunchy, black cherry fruit. There’s still a fair whack of oak, but also a fl eetness of foot that belies its heritage. Give it a year or two and it’ll be even better, with added nuance.
>We now have around 800 wines at ocado.com/wines | SHOP 13
PHOTOGRAPHY: DAN MATTHEWS. ILLUSTRATION: JAMES CAREY