DINING
Simple, elegant, exemplary
By Linda DuVal
Editor’s note: This is part of a series of profi les of current AAA Four Diamond restaurants.
Mizuna 225 E. 7th Ave., Denver (303) 832-4778,
www.mizunadenver.com
Panzano Italian Restaurant 909 17th St., Denver
303-296-3525,
www.panzano-denver.com
Chef Frank Bonanno
A New Jersey native, chef Frank Bonanno worked at Sfuzi’s in Denver while attending Denver University, got training at the Culinary Institute of America, and spent time working in Alba, Italy, before returning to Denver to take the helm at Mizuna. He loves foie gras and often
has some playful version on the menu, but “I guess I’m best known for my Lobster Macaroni and Cheese,” he says. Customers would complain bitterly if he took it off the menu. His culinary philosophy: “I
like to use the best ingredients and make everything fresh and a la minute,” says Bonanno, who believes that simple and elegant are not mutually exclusive. Besides the food, he believes
“exemplary” service and a great wine list keep customers coming back.
Louisiana-born chef Elise Wiggins comes from a restaurant family and got her inspiration to cook from the food of her childhood. Trained in Dallas and at the former Colorado Institute of Art, she also has studied in Florence, Italy. Her current job at Panzano makes good use of that experience. Panzano got its AAA Four Diamond rating after she became its chef. “My whole menu … (is) designed
so that there is something for everyone, whether you are a vegetar-
Ingredients: 2 1/2 cups apple cider 1/2 cup shelled toasted pistachios
1 sprig rosemary, stem removed, leaves fi nely chopped 1 pinch fl eur de sel (or sea salt) Vegetable oil for frying
26 Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half Salt and pepper
2 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, grated
Chef Elise Wiggins’ Fried Brussels Sprouts.
ian, in the mood for pasta, feeling like classic Italian or contemporary Italian,” she says. Recently, her rab- bit gnocchi has won rave reviews, along with her spicy salumi risotto and pan-seared scallops. And, surprisingly perhaps, her famous Brussels sprouts! Panzano earns kudos also for
the personal service and attention given to diners. “We really try to connect with the
guests on a personal level,” Wiggins says. “By getting to know (them) we are more successful at giving them the type of service and … guid- ing them to the type of meal they would enjoy.”
Fried Brussels Sprouts Directions:
In a small sauté pan over high heat, boil cider until it is reduced to a thin syrup, about fi ve minutes (you will have about 1/4 cup). Set aside to cool.
pan to cool, then chop them coarsely (by hand or in a food processor). Combine the chopped pistachios with the rosemary leaves and fl eur de sel or salt. Set aside.
350 degrees. Fry the Brussels sprout halves until the outside leaves begin to turn golden brown. Do not overcook, or they will turn mushy. Remove the sprouts from the oil and toss in a bowl with pistachio, rosemary, salt and pepper.
cider. Top each with one-fourth of the grated apples.
Liberally drizzle with the reduced apple In a heavy pot or fryer, heat the oil to Toast pistachios lightly and remove from
Linda DuVal is a former travel editor and freelance writer in Colorado Springs. EnCompass March/April 2012 47
Courtesy of Mizuna
Recipe courtesy of Panzano Italian Restaurant © Jennifer Koskinen
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