storehouse. When people arrived, Hatto locked them inside and set the building on fi re. As they screamed in agony, he fl ippantly said, “Hear the mice squeak.” Hatto then returned to his tower, where in a cosmic turn of events, rodents ate him alive. While some stories are fantasti-
Visitors
wander the Marktplatz in front of Basel,
Switzerland’s brightly painted City Hall.
cal, “robber barons” built many of the castles along the Rhine. Much like fairytale trolls, they strung chains or heavy ropes across the waters and demanded a toll from merchants. During the Middle Ages, the Rhine was a vital com- mercial artery, and it saw many bloody battles as disparate clans, religious oligarchies and warring nations fought for control. Despite its
© Jeff Steig
turbulent his- tory, the river valley is one of the most pic- turesque in all of Europe—a tableau that attracted renowned painters, authors and musicians for centuries. Ancient vine- yards cling to the steep hillsides, and
in autumn, their leaves turn a burnished gold. Villages with tall church steeples and colorful tim- bered buildings line the narrow banks and the mouths of tributar- ies. Hundreds of graceful white swans paddle gently in the eddies, seeking scraps from families who wander the trails beside the river. When the Antoinette docked
in Koblenz, I boarded a bus for an optional late-afternoon tour of Marksburg Castle, the only hill castle on the river not destroyed during various wars. The Lords of Eppstein built the Romanesque fortress in the early 12th century. Later owners
34 EnCompass March/April 2012
added Gothic elements, as well as artillery batteries and ramparts. As I trod the castle’s deeply scored and scabrous stones, I listened
to the tales of life within the thick walls—how defenders lived in cramped quarters, under the gloomy threat of attack. I imagined the stench of live animals, unwashed humans and gunpowder of a community under siege. Yet knowing the hardships of castle life didn’t dampen my fas-
cination. After all, battles of life and death and class warfare spawn the most spellbinding fables and legends.
Storybook villages
The week leading up to Castle Mania and the following days did lit- tle to keep me grounded in reality since each town we visited exuded storybook charm. Here are the high points of each:
Switzerland
Basel On the advice of veteran cruisers, we arrived a day early to explore this Rhine-centric city. It’s Antoinette’s base, and the ship docked at the Border Triangle, where Switzerland, France and Germany inter- sect. We wandered across Middle Bridge, the Rhine’s fi rst span, and through Old Town. The Swissotel Le Plaza embodied the nation’s famed hospitality with its modern comfortable rooms, free mobil- ity cards and complimentary Toblerone chocolates.
France
Colmar The river cruise’s fi rst city tour, Colmar is a medieval town with brightly colored half-timber buildings. Rowboats bob in nar- row canals and geraniums burst from window boxes. Native son, Frederic Bartholdi, created the 125 year-old Statue of Liberty. Many of his statues dot the town. Riquewihr This walled city in Alsace sits amongst vineyards tucked against the Vosges Mountains. Cobbled streets, narrow alleyways and fi ne restaurants add to the charm of this 16th-cen- tury village. For lunch, I sampled the local pizza-like specialty, tarte fl ambé, smothered in pungent cheese and caramelized onions.
Strasbourg Alsace’s capital and home to the Cathedrale Notre Dame, a stunningly ornate Gothic church whose spires we could see from nearly any point in the city. During free time, we borrowed Antoinette’s touring bikes and peddled to Petite France, where canal boats navigate a system of locks. Sidewalk cafes, street vendors sell- ing roasted chestnuts and unique shops abound.
Germany
Speyer Once a free city of the Holy Roman Empire, this 2,000-year-old village features the largest Romanesque cathedral in the world. Eight emperors lay entombed inside the cathedral walls. We explored the cobbled side streets and small cafes on the Antoinette’s borrowed bikes.
Rudesheim am Rhein We walked the “happiest street in the world,” a narrow cobbled lane fi lled with shops, pubs and cafes. Others rode the cable car across the vineyards, which produce high-quality Rieslings. In the evening, Antoinette guests visit 800-year-old Schloss Vollrads, the oldest German winery, for a tasting and castle tour.
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