| DR SHELDON PINNELL | PeOPLe PrOFiLe
‘The first product that was used by SkinCeuticals was a topical vitamin C product,’ says Dr Pinnell. ‘We learnt how to formulate it so that it would go into the skin quite readily, and found that it had a number of advantages that other sun protection technologies didn’t have.’ After that, he was
able to combine vitamin C and vitaminE to develop an even more
enhanced
p h o t o p r o t e c t i o n product. ‘These formulations
SkinCeuticals has carried out
extensive studies to assess the efficacy of
are unusual in that the chemicals are in very high concentrations, but low in pH, which is very different to the usual products you might use on your skin,’ says Dr Pinnell. Dr Pinnell's research has shown that for
antioxidants under the stress of the sun’suV spectrum.
produces — these antioxidants get into the skin, provide substantial photoprotection, and even inhibit the DNA mutations that the sun causes, and that can lead to skin cancer. And, what is better, is that these antioxidant products are based on the very ingredients that the skin uses naturally to protect itself by reinforcing the skin's protective system these products help to improve skin health and protect it against premature ageing. Furthermore, the skin is able to repair itself when well protected. However, Dr Pinnell
emphasises that it is also important to use sunscreen as the SkinCeuticals products won’t prevent sunburn. ‘They do something different to
the antioxidant formulas to work effectively as photoprotective products, and to be absorbed by the skin, they need to follow three key criteria for formulation: ■ Use pure active forms of vitamins (L-ascorbic acid and α-tocopherol) ■ Be formulated at a low pH ■ Be at a high concentration (approximately 10–15%).
Enhancing photoprotection Approximately 5 years ago, Dr Pinnell was also able to channel the efficacy of two more antioxidants from plants: ferulic acid and phloretin. In order to discover the photoprotective properties of these organic compounds, SkinCeuticals purchased a number of antioxidants in chemical form, testing a range of formulations to see whether they could penetrate the skin. Again, only these two could. These two products are also wholly
natural; ferulic acid is something that all plants produce to protect themselves from the sun, and phloretin is predominantly found in apples. ‘Interestingly, ferulic acid and phloretin
helped to enhance the photoprotective power of the original formulas containing L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and α-tocopherol (vitamin E),' says Dr Pinnell. ‘So, these ingredients interact with each other and provide supplemental protection.’ And this is basically the backbone to the technologies that SkinCeuticals
sunscreen in my opinion,’ he says. ‘What they do is allow increased defence against these things that cause harm, so it makes sense to use them on a daily basis. But they work by a mechanism that’s different to sunscreen, so if you want to optimise your photoprotection, then use both.’
Advocating evidence- based practice Dr Pinnell initially trained as a biochemist at the National Institutes for Health, during which time his research focused on collagen chemistry, before choosing to specialise in dermatology. It is perhaps this background that has made him a great advocate of clinical trials and evidence-based research and practice — he himself has spent almost five decades researching new technologies to prevent skin cancer and photoageing, as well as holding nine patents. SkinCeuticals has carried out extensive
studies to assess the efficacy of antioxidants under the stress of the sun’s UV spectrum, as well as other sources of free radicals. The brand also anticipates further studies in skin repair, but these often take a significant amount of time to carry out. One thing that is clear, however, is that this research has produced some state-of-the-art products containing antioxidants, such as C E Ferulic and Phloretin CF. ‘They both give the same amount of
protection,’ Dr Pinnell explains. ‘But the C E Ferulic product has vitamin E,
prime-journal.com | September 2011 ❚
which is an oil, so is more beneficial for those with older or dry skin. Phloretin CF is better for oily skin, and those living in humid environments may prefer to use this.’ However, the beauty of the SkinCeuticals range is that there is now a ‘menu’ from which people with different skin types are able to choose, in order to find the right product that works for them.
Conclusions Coming from a dermatological background, Dr Pinnell's life-work has focused on processes of the skin and the protective qualities of products that can be developed. In a world in which appearance-based treatments are constantly advancing and changing dramatically, I'm reminded how important it is to protect your investment by ensuring that you protect your skin and treat it well. Dr Pinnell believes that this is something that all physicians should reinforce to their patients, while embracing the power of antioxidants in their daily practice.
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