F&B
Vintage Cognac F
Tempted away from whisky and wine, Marcin Miller tastes something very different in the world of cognac…
or many years, my heart was true. Recently, however, I have found my thoughts wandering. If you want to put a label on it, call it a mid-life crisis. The truth is that after 15 years, a change is as good as a rest
– even for the most devoted of us. So it came to pass that an illicit tryst was arranged – I attended a press trip to Cognac and for a few days turned my back on whisky.
The guilt has now faded as I confess to having
returned not only converted but beguiled. Hine House, one of the oldest in Jarnac, has stood on the banks of the Charente for over 250 years. Following his arrest during the French Revolution, Thomas Hine, an Englishman from Dorset, married a French girl whose father owned a Cognac house; eventually the business was renamed Thomas Hine & Co in 1817.
It is Hine’s opinion that the ideal time to enjoy Cognac is; “in a quiet moment or in a convivial atmosphere with friends, when I am relaxed with no problems to solve I enjoy a Hine early-landed Vintage Cognac with some wood presence but not too much; I have to be careful as I like to talk about Cognac in the way some people talk about their children.” The 1961 is astonishing; bright amber with aromas of nuts, orange peel and soft spices, a powerful palate and great depth reminiscent of hazelnuts and crème brûlée and an extremely long finish.
Other vintage Cognacs are available, as became
Hine specialises in single vintage Cognacs from the Grande Champagne region. According to Bernhard Hine, sixth generation of his family involved in the business, “The vintage is the year the grapes were harvested, the quality of the wine being very closely linked to the conditions of soil and climate prevailing that year.” In Jarnac, Hine maintains tradition; during great years, the family sets aside casks of the most exceptional Cognacs and, upon reaching peak maturity, these are either transferred into demi- johns or bottled immediately. Hine also adheres to another, altogether more British tradition; some of their Cognacs are matured in damp vaulted cellars near Bristol. For obvious reasons, these vintages are called ‘Early Landed’.
Cognac is a spirit which shouldn’t be considered as alcohol but as a top quality wine
apparent at a tasting in the cellars of the world’s oldest and most prestigious wine and spirits merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd; Delamain is all about elegance and, like Hine, is considered a Cognac for lovers of fine wine. Pale & Dry is the youngest Cognac in the family but at an average of 25 years is already venerable, very aromatic with supreme elegance. For those after a more masculine style, Delamain Vesper is richer, deeper, darker and with an
average age of 30 shows savoury notes of rancio. In addition, Delamain produces Vintage Cognacs, all of which have spent a minimum of 30 years in cask. The 1979 is simply amazing; a big, rich nose and huge mouthfeel. The palate is redolent of delicious cocoa, ginger and walnuts. Truly exceptional.
For Bernhard Hine the glory of Cognac lies in the fact that “long ageing and wood influence make for a very balanced taste – the spirit is changing but shows great delicacy, balancing aromas and taste.” It is Hine’s view that Cognac is a spirit which shouldn’t be considered as alcohol but as a top quality wine: “It has the character of wine from which it is distilled and the language of Cognac has nothing to with terms used to describe spirit tasting.”
However, there is a question of scale to be considered: Hennessy alone represents 40% of all Cognac; Courvoisier, Martell and Remy together account for a further 40%. The categories of VS and VSOP make up 98% of the Cognac industry. In stark contrast, Delamain sells in one year what the big boys do in three days… However, it is the only Cognac house to produce exclusively XO and above from Grande Champagne.
The best bars should always have a selection of
rare spirits for a discerning clientele. Vintage-dated Cognacs (and whiskies) are perfect for generous celebrations.
28 APRIL 2011
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