photos this page from left to right: James and the author soak up a perfect Raja Empat sunset. The place is a biological gold mine: A rare 2.5-metre wobbegone shark resting under a coral ledge. The author (left) with outfitter Max Ammer and “number one” guide Otto atop one of the many limestone islands of Wayag.
We finally reach a sheltered beach on the north coast
of Kawe,with only the long crossing remaining to Wayag. I survey the whitecapped Philippine Sea for over an hour. Faint outlines of the steep-walled Wayag group punctuate the northern horizon and I imagine the distant three- metre swells racing across miles of open sea, and then slamming into the narrow and rocky reef-guarded passages of the lagoon. Paddling with James has not gone smoothly.On one occasion we needed to round an exposed point, which thrust us directly into the face of three-metre swells that were ricocheting wildly off cliffs to our
left.At the worst possible moment,when we were all struggling to commu- nicate amidst the confusion, James stopped paddling, pulled out his sponge, and casually began wiping off his spray
skirt.Bo and Dave had to stop quickly to avoid hit- ting him, losing precious momentum. Neither was pleased with the threat of capsize and being slammed into the
rocks.Amazingly, James’ face and body language indicated he was thoroughly at ease. I couldn’t imagine what he was thinking,and I was frustrated by my inability to ask him for a detailed explanation, or to explain to him the sub- tleties of group kayak travel. Thinking about my family back in Colorado, I realize
the only way I’m getting from Kawe to Wayag is by motor- ized boat.
T
wo days later, we arrive at Wayag in the dark, after hitching a ride with the folks from Irian Diving. In
the morning, I wake to an unfamiliar world. Lying on the beach, I strain to focus my sleepy eyes in the early morning light.I am more impressed by my first sight of Wayag than I ever could have
imagined.Complex,multi-coloured vertical walls soar out of the lagoon.Everywhere I turn,there is lush verdant growth draping and clinging to every surface. The days fly by as we dive unexplored reefs with
James, Max, and Irian Diving’s “number-one” guide, Otto. Every day,Wayag reveals more of its
treasures.There are hidden channels and entrances to secret bays, only naviga- ble by kayak.On the northern side, obscured from the usual southern approach, 100-metre limestone walls plum- met to a sea that stretches uninterrupted for more than 3,000 kilometres to the southern shoreline of Japan. The entire coast is punctuated with steep cliffs, deep caves, spectacular arches and secluded turtle-nesting beaches. Evenings, the talk turns to conservation,and Max enthusiastically describes his ideas to empower the Papuan people to protect their islands against the influx of illegal fishing boats and other environmental threats— projects like the sustainable collection of live fish for aquariums and English classes for guides. He also proposes a series of ranger stations to deter bomb and cyanide fish- ing, which could double as eco-camps for guided kayak trips.We identify protected areas that would be suitable for beginning kayakers on our charts, figuring it would take less than a thousand dollars to build a fleet of fibre- glass kayaks on-site at Camp Kri.
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