photos this page from left to right: A Papuan fisherman and his son use a traditional dugout canoe and low-impact (spear gun) fishing techniques. James fires up a Papuan-style fish barbecue. Paddling Wayag Lagoon, photo by Max Ammer.
and crude pictures in the sand to describe the conditions that can occur when large seas run against a strong cur- rent or encounter a shallow reef. I emphasize the need for proper spacing of our kayaks. James gives a nod and grin, which eventually proves to be more of a nervous response than real acknowledgment.He seems blissfully ignorant about what may lie ahead. Things with James are better in camp than on the
water.One day, James trades two of our lures and line with
At the worst possible moment, when we were all struggling to communicate amidst the confusion, James stopped paddling, pulled out his sponge, and casually began wiping off his spray skirt.
some local fishermen for five good-sized
fish.After he uses his machete to create a barbecue, Papuan style, he guts the fish,and soon we have a delicious meal from the sea. In his element, he is proud to show us his ingenuity and abili- ty to contribute something to the group. We pass the time in camp snorkeling and beachcomb-
ing, often finding rare and exotic shells whose ornate and intricate patterns seem at odds with the slimy creatures that once resided inside. In the evening we keep watch for the “green flash” as the tropical sun seems to literally plunge from the sky. James shows interest in some of my coral reef ID
books,and we try to spot what we’ve seen during our underwater forays.We often venture into the darkness of
36 Spring 2003
the nighttime reef and are privy to bizarre nighttime crea- tures like a rare foot-long epaulette shark or 3-cm-long pygmy cuttlefish (a type of squid), which pulse with wild colour patterns as they hover, mating above the eel grass. Daytime snorkeling is just as good and I am always eager to take a peek underwater. Each time we venture below the surface, there seems to be a new discovery awaiting us—a dugong (Pacific manatee), giant clams more than a metre across,and many wobeggone sharks, all extremely rare finds on any reef.On numerous occasions we swim with “herds” of burly bump- head parrotfish as they graze on the sprawling reefs, noisi- ly chomping away on coral polyps. I can’t help but laugh that the constant stream of crushed coral they are excret- ing is the same stuff I enjoy wiggling my toes in on the sandy beach. James has a good eye for spotting creatures in the wild, like the well-camouflaged and dangerous scor- pion fish,as well as in the books—a good sign for a poten- tial guide. He even begins to open up.We have a brief male-bond- ing moment when he points to the Javanese woman on the front of my phrasebook and with a sheepish grin remarks, “Indah” (beautiful).We begin to describe our families and I discover he has three brothers and a sister as we take turns writing each family member’s name in my journal. He surprises me when he asks to write some- thing
inside.After retreating to the shade of a coconut tree he returns with a somewhat bashful look,I am touched to see he has sketched a sunset and written a short poem.
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