Part of the 63-kilometre Coastal Trail. That evening we went back out to the


point and watched the sunset; one magnifi- cent enough that even Chase was touched. “How can the sun be that big?” he won- dered aloud. “Does Lake Superior make that happen, or what?” I asked the boys if they’d heard of Michi


Peshu, the great horned lynx: “He is the power and mystery of these ancient wa- ters. He might have something to do with how beautiful the sunset looks.” Their raised eyebrows and smiles sug-


gested they weren’t buying my story about the great horned lynx. I’d been known to exaggerate a story or two, and besides, they were 11 and 13 now—not as easily fooled as they used to be. So the next day we hiked the Agawa Rock


Indian Pictographs Trail to the old painting of Michi Peshu. It was a short hike through a deep and eerie crevice. The pictographs were painted centuries ago by native peo- ple on a high cliff overlooking Superior. We examined the mysterious Michi Peshu, and other rock paintings at the Agawa Rock pictograph site and speculated about their meaning. The boys’ fascination with Supe- rior was beginning to show. “We are camped on Gitchigumi,” I ex-


plained to the kids around the campfire that evening. “The ancient Ojibwa meaning is ‘great lake’. Lake Superior really is the world’s largest lake and the most spectacu- lar too.” “Yeah, whatever. We know all that stuff


already from school,” said Chase.“Pass the marshmallows, Uncle Doug.” The Coastal Hiking Trail in Lake Superior


Provincial Park is 63 kilometres long and takes five to seven days to hike end to end. The trail traces the Lake Superior coast- line along scenic cliffs, across cobblestone beaches and through bush. Those who have hiked it understand the power and beauty of Superior. I wanted the boys to experience this trail but hiking the entire trail was out of the question. We were car camping after all and were not prepared for a week-long backpacking trip. The Coastal Trail happened to be the


theme of the presentation at the park’s amphitheatre that evening. The natural heritage education coordinator, Carol Der- sch knows the trail like few others. Her enthusiasm rubbed off on all of us. Best


The great horned lynx.


of all, Carol announced that Kathleen, her colleague, would be leading a day hike on the trail starting at Katherine Cove, 15 ki- lometres north of the campground. All we had to do was show up the next morning with hiking footwear, clothing and a lunch and she would lead the way. Katherine Cove is an excellent picnic site


with a shallow beach for swimming. Hikers can pick up the coastal trail and follow it north for 10 kilometres through a wilder- ness setting where the trail comes close to the highway again at Coldwater Creek. We scrambled over rocks, boulders and


cobblestone beaches and stopped to gaze into deep, blue, impossibly clear water and watch an otter dart in and out of a tangle of driftwood. Kathleen showed us crushed clam shells in otter scat. She pointed out all sorts of warblers and several nests while a bald eagle kept an eye on the boys from his perch in a cedar tree. She guided us to some amazing pools in the rock formed by powerful storm surge waters. She told the kids that these pools act as nurseries for frogs and salamanders—they were hooked. Kathleen told the parents about the geolo- gy—a colourful array of twisted, contorted rock mixing with smooth polished areas, pocket beaches, points and cliffs. There were multi-coloured polished agates mixed with the shoreline pebbles. We drifted off to sleep that night with


the sound of the waves softly lapping the shore and a full moon casting pine shad- ows on the tents. I was looking forward to the drive home because I knew it would be different. It would be eight hours of the kids telling me stories of their adventures on the shore of Gitchigumi. FC


WHERE TO CAMP


AGAWA BAY CAMPGROUND Lake Superior shore loca- tion, 148 campsites (38 electrical sites), 3-kilometre beach, large visitor centre, outdoor theatre. Flush toi- lets, showers and laundry facilities located in two comfort stations.


A salamander nursery.


THINGS TO KNOW WHEN YOU GO


ABOUT LAKE SUPERIOR PROVINCIAL PARK


This 156,000-hectare park includes one of the finest sections of Lake Superior’s rugged coast but it also encompasses inland hills, rivers, lakes and canyons. Well known for spectacular hiking trails and some pristine canoe routes, the park has 175 interior campsites for the wilderness adventurer, accessible only by hiking or paddling. A can and bottle ban is in effect for the in- terior. The Agawa Rock pictograph site is one superb example of the park’s rich cultural history.


The new park visitor centre at Agawa Bay provides an interpretive overview of the park’s cultural histo- ry, natural features and recreational opportunities. It is also the location for the Natural Heritage Education Program.


Park staff offer a wide range of organized activities during the sum- mer months such as thematic hikes, evening programs and natural and cultural heritage interpretation.


BEST TIME TO GO Lake Superior Provincial Park and the Agawa Bay Campground are open from May 5th until Septem- ber 10th. The Coastal Hiking Trail is open from June to October. Summer is the best time to hike the Coastal Trail for the first time.


There are three large car campgrounds with modern facilities within Lake Superior Provincial Park:


CRESCENT LAKE CAMPGROUND Inland location, basic camping facilities on 36 electrical sites, located near the southern boundary of the park.


RABBIT BLANKET LAKE CAMPGROUND Inland location, north-central part of the park, 60 campsites (20 electrical sites).


LAKE SUPERIOR PROVINCIAL PARK 705-856-2284


info@lakesuperiorpark.ca www.ontarioparks.com


FAMILY CAMPING 11


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