g Surf
>> IF YOU CHOOSE to paddle in ex- posed coastal areas, you’ll have little choice but to launch or land your kay- ak in a surf zone. Breaking surf rep- resents one of the greatest challenges to any paddler. It’s vitally important to choose the right beach for prevailing conditions, because surf is an incred- ibly dynamic and powerful environ- ment that offers both amazing play possibilities and potentially devastat- ing beat-downs. To assess a beach landing, consid-
er the size, direction and frequency of the swell, the slope and composi- tion of the beach, the tide level, and local currents. The overall size of the waves is one
very major concern. Sitting in a kayak, the top of most paddlers’ heads will be roughly one metre (three feet) from the surface of the water. With practice, breaking waves up to this height feel fairly manageable, but larger surf is far more intimidating and challenging. Wave frequency will also have a
profound effect on your surf experi- ence. Waves come in “sets”—groups of similar-sized waves alternating with periods of relative calm. If waves are nicely spaced apart and there is a bit of a lull between sets, a paddler will have plenty of time to react to incoming waves. If waves are closely stacked and rolling relentlessly in one after the other, conditions will be far harder to manage. The slope of the beach is also im-
portant. A long, evenly sloping beach will generate surf that builds gradual- ly. Wave faces will tend to get steeper and break predictably, spilling from the crest of the wave. Waves are rela- tively forgiving on this type of beach. Waves that crash very close to shore
rather than farther out are one sign of a dangerously steep beach that will not be suitable for launching or land- ing. There is incredible power in these waves which jack up suddenly and col- lapse or “dump” with tremendous force, expending their energy in one explo- sive crash rather than breaking progres- sively as they head toward shore. Of course it’s always preferable to
land or surf at a nice sandy or peb- bly beach. A rocky shoreline strewn with big logs and other debris will make getting in and out a lot more difficult and dangerous. Having said that, opting for a sandy beach being pummelled by violent surf instead of a sheltered rocky shoreline would be a serious mistake. The direction of the swell will determine which areas of shoreline will have the largest surf and which coastline features will pro- vide shelter. It’s also important to be aware of
currents and tides. A change in tide height can seriously alter the char- acter of a break—sharp rocks might become exposed or beaches that pro- vide a safe landing at some tide levels may disappear altogether at others. Rip tides are a hazard that forms
when water that has been pushed up on a beach by breaking waves is pulled back out by gravity. Because waves continually push more water up the slope of the beach, there can be a lot of water searching for the quickest way out. Rips are tricky to spot, but at any popular surf spot they are well known, so take the time to search out local knowledge. A river draining into the sea may generate a similar current. To escape from a rip, paddle (or
swim) perpendicular to the current— generally parallel to the shore—until you are out of the grip of the current and can start heading to shore. If you simply try to go straight in, you will be fighting the powerful current the whole way. No landing or launch site is ever
perfect. Sometimes landings are very difficult, but you can still strive to make the best choice from a less than ideal lot. The key is to carefully inven- tory conditions and choose the path and timing where the waves are con- sistently weakest and the terrain is the best for exiting or entering a kayak. —Alex Matthews is the author (with Ken Whiting) of the book Touring and Sea Kayaking—The Essential Skills and Safety and the instructional DVD The Ultimate Guide to Sea Kayaking, available at
www.helipress.com.
Rendezvous Island in BC, Canada
Kayak to Camping in Style! Discover
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