FASHION FOOTWEAR
Designer profile
ability to speak Italian – it was a tough introduction to the industry. “I love the individuality and extreme creativity of London – Vivienne
D
Westwood is one of my favourite designers, but I was intrigued by the almost mythical allure of Italian life. She explains, “But my decision wasn’t just fuelled by fashion – that has never been my sole source of inspiration. I get enthused by everyday things, like architecture, furniture and of course people. There’s just something about the Italian culture which really resonates with me.” Baker’s natural skills and flair for design, combined with her laid back
attitude and innate sense of style soon secured her a reputation as an innovative and notable designer. From Bologna, her Italian base, she collaborated with fellow Cordwainer’s alumni Emma Hope as well as Clone and Fly London. Adjusting to Italian life, a busy career as a freelance shoe designer, combined with becoming a mother meant that the early years in Italy were certainly very challenging. Some years later she met one of Bologna’s most highly regarded interior designers Paolo Fiorentini, with whom she forged a relationship on both a personal and creative level. In 2001, after much encouragement from family and friends the couple launched their own company – Fiorentini + Baker. The experience and creativity of
Fiorentini’s skills, combined with Deborah Baker’s romantic and slightly eccentric sense of style proved to be a successful
combination. The first collection of men’s and women’ s shoes was
instantly embraced in Europe and the US. Shortly after the launch of the first collection the couple opened up a dedicated boutique in a cosmopolitan
district of Bologna. “At first it was a lot of work and
responsibility, but really good to be creating my own designs after being slightly restricted as a freelancer,’ explains Baker. ‘My training in London and past experience had put me on the right track, but I felt like I really found my own style and technique as a designer when Fiorentini + Baker launched.” Each collection was and still is
produced in small, family-run factories in the Marche region of Italy. Using traditional artisan techniques, rarely seen today, combined with vegetable tanned leathers of the highest quality, the production in the
22 • FOOTWEAR TODAY
• APRIL 2010
eborah Baker graduated in 1985 from Cordwainer’s College, London, alongside British footwear legends Emma Hope and Patrick Cox. But unlike her peers, Baker fled the London scene and made her way to Italy. Fresh out of design school and with no
Footwear Today talks to celebrated shoe
designer Deborah Baker, who is making an impact on London after 25 years in Italy
factories embodied everything that Baker wanted her collections to encompass. “Once I started working directly with the artisan factories I realised why I
had come to Italy.” She explains. ‘The traditional techniques and quality materials completely enhance and give depth and authenticity to the brand, this was exactly what I wanted to achieve.” However, in 2006 relations between the couple became strained and as a
result Deborah bought Fiorentini out of the business, but still retained the company name as it had gained international recognition as a quality footwear brand. This was a significant turning point in the company and Baker set about surrounding herself with likeminded, designer friends who really helped to shape the creative direction in which she wanted to head. “My decisions have always
driven by creativity and gut feelings rather than business, and so far most of these decisions seem to have paid off!” Over the next few years, the
business really took off, which prompted Deborah to make the bold decision to open the first dedicated Fiorentini + Baker boutique outside of Europe. In June 2009, in the midst of one of the worst economical downturns the world has ever seen, Fiorentini + Baker, London opened its
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