The finest vintage of all– Part II
Since 1999 it has been called Les Voiles de St Tropez. But Dan Houston prefers to call it what it is... La Nioulargue. He also gets the Seahorse vote
The noonday sun blazing onto Pam- pelonne Beach cuts the light into stark shifts of colour, much like a Hockney painting. There isn’t a cloud in the vaulted blue sky, the pale fine sand is too hot for bare feet, and the sea… it’s a perfect translucent azure blue. That’ll be why they call it the Côte d’Azur then. But this is the first of October; back
home thoughts will be turning to equin - octial gales and thermals. Our French still- life scene, complete with rustling palms, is being viewed from the balmy comfort of a rush-shaded table at the Club 55, the most famous of all water’s-edge restaurants, where the brown arms of a French yacht crew push packs of Marlboro Lights and glasses of rosé across a white tablecloth. The conversation and laughter tinkle like the ice cubes in the glasses. I think I’ve come to heaven. A case of mistaken identity perhaps, but it feels as if
48 SEAHORSE
the world is exhaling in these placid waters, after a busy season. Saint-Tropez and all the superyachts, with the demand- ing owners, stressed-out captains and obedient crews, are just around the head- land. Some 188 boats (92 of them classics) have gathered to spend a week racing at the event that used to be the famous Nioulargue regatta, until it was cancelled when a young French doctor died in a collision in 1995. This is 1999 – my first time in Saint-
Tropez. And I’m asking myself: ‘It’s not the Nioulargue, or is it?’ The globally most famous sailing event for classic vessels was all but shut down for three years between 1996 and last year. Boats had come and there were parades of sail… but no racing. All the recent talk was of it being ‘back
on’. So this is the first time there has been racing since that fateful day when the 32ft 6-Metre Taos Brett was rammed and run over by the 138ft Herreshoff 1916 schooner Mariette, causing the death of Dr Jacques Bourry. There were photos at the time of the smaller boat disappearing under the bows of the mighty steel schooner. Thomas Perkins, the late self- styled ‘zillionaire’ owner, and Thomas Eaton, the skipper of Mariette, were
arrested on the quay. After 10 hours they were released but had to wait nearly a year for the French court to find them guilty of involuntary manslaughter, imposing a £6,000 fine and a two-month suspended jail sentence on both men. A similar penalty was given to Claude Graf, owner and skipper of Taos Brett. The organisers, originally implicated, were exonerated, although after this the event founder, Patrice de Colmont, stood down. De Colmont later told me he refused to
become involved when French maritime law changed in May 1996, allowing organisers of regattas to be held partly responsible for any accidents that may occur. ‘During the tribunal (over the doctor’s death) I was told captains may not be responsible for everything; that organisers like me could be responsible if the event was badly planned. ‘I agree with the spirit of that, but it’s
not precise enough – it’s a crazy law. In maritime affairs the captain is always responsible for the running of his ship. We have other responsibilities, but captains must see to it their vessels don’t crash.’ Perkins, who was back with Mariette at
this event, and who I met walking up to the prizegiving at the Citadel, always
INGRID ABERY
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