The Embroidery Column


Five rules for perfect jacket embroidery


Embroidery is a key skill that, when used right, can bump profit margins, but it is important to do right. In this column, director of Amaya Sales UK, Charlotte Darling, gives her advice on what to do when putting the work on jackets.


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mbroidering jackets is a high-margin opportunity, but only if you get it right. Jackets pose unique and frustrating challenges for even the most experienced embroiders with slippery fabrics and thick seams.


Today, I’m outlining five proven rules, some would say obvious but often overlooked, that I believe will help you avoid common pitfalls and deliver professional results every time on any type of jacket.


1. Use the right needle for the fabric


Choosing the wrong needle is one of the most common causes of thread breaks, skipped stitches, or puckered finishes. • Use a sharp-point 80/12 or 90/14 for thick or coated fabrics like canvas or polyester workwear.


• For waterproof jackets, try a ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the membrane.


• Consider titanium-coated needles for extra strength when working through multiple layers or seams. Extra tip: Always start with a new needle when testing, even before adjusting tensions or blaming the design file, as a blunt needle can cause thread shredding or stitch inconsistency.


2. Stabilise properly with the right backing Hooping jackets isn’t like hooping polo shirts or T shirts. The structure and fabric composition often demand more control. • Heavy jackets: Use a strong cut-away backing. Lighter or stretch jackets: Use a medium tear-away and possibly with a temporary spray adhesive. • For awkward areas (e.g. seams or zips), float the garment with sticky backing instead of hooping.


Add a water-soluble topping on fleece or textured surfaces to keep details sharp.


Don’t rely on the hoop alone. Experimenting with different backings and adhesives is your secret weapon for stable, clean embroidery.


3. Hooping technique makes or breaks it Misaligned designs and puckering often come down to bad hooping. • Use magnetic or clamp-style hoops for even pressure and minimal fabric distortion.


• Avoid over-tightening traditional hoops, especially on softshell or padded jackets.


• Floating the jacket with backing and securing it with clips or basting stitches often gives the best results.


• For repeat orders, invest in a hooping station to save time and ensure perfect placement.


Remember, if it feels awkward to hoop, it’s probably | 38 | September 2025


Example of a jacket being hooped


Select the right needle for the task


not hooped correctly. Depending on the machines you are running, your supplier will be able to suggest brand-specific frames and accessories.


4. Digitise for the fabric – not just the logo The design may look great on a polo, but on a thick jacket, excessive density can cause major problems, so always indicate to your digitiser the type of product/ fabric and, of course, the design size. • Reduce fill stitch density for jackets. • Use lighter underlay and thinner satin columns for small text. • Work with a digitiser who understands embroidery on different fabrics – or test your in-house files thoroughly.


• Run a stitch simulation to spot potential tension points in advance.


5. Never skip the test run


It’s tempting to jump straight into production, especially when you’re up against a deadline, but don’t. • Always run a test stitch on scrap material (or a spare jacket if possible).


• Confirm the needle and thread combination works cleanly. • Tweak density, compensation, or tension as needed before starting the full run.


It takes 10 minutes but can save hours of rework or expensive replacement garments.


Embroidering jackets isn’t difficult, but it does demand discipline and the right tools. With the right setup, stabilisation, and preparation, jacket embroidery can become one of the most profitable parts of your embroidery business as you stand to make a profit on the embroidery and a higher-value blank. Whether you’re running a single-head machine or a multi- head setup, these five fundamentals will help you reduce waste, improve quality, and increase customer satisfaction across every jacket embroidery job.


www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk


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