Luxury Packaging The eco evolution of
cosmetics carton packaging What does the shiſt away from plastics mean for carton packaging in the cosmetics sector? Mike Lammas, managing director of packaging print specialist, Herbert Walkers, discusses luxury finishes for cosmetics carton packaging.
W
ith concerns about the planet, pollution and the effects of consumerism on developing nations in the global community, consumers have never been more aware of what goes into the products they buy. And that personal due diligence not only applies to ingredients; it also involves manufacturing practices, ethics, the journey from source to shelf and, of course, packaging.
Consumerism with a conscience doesn’t only apply to food and drink sectors either; for many, the drive to make ethical choices about what they choose to eat and drink, also spills over into decision-making about what to wear and what products to use for hygiene, beauty and household cleaning. Even those who do not identify as vegan, or do not challenge themselves to go plastic-free, are more aware of making responsible choices that will have less impact on people, places and the planet. For the cosmetics sector, these trends have prompted a complex journey when it comes to packaging design and production. While some brands have consciously gone down the ‘natural’ route, with raw, brown boards, minimalist text in muted colours, and the absence of finishes, that approach can lead to perceptions of a brand being more utilitarian than luxurious. The challenge for brands (including own label brands) and their packaging supply chain, is to ensure the pack has impact on shelf, communicating luxury and excitement to generate consumer appeal, while still delivering on sustainability with recyclable materials.
SUSTAINABLE LUXURY
Fundamentally, cosmetics are a luxury item, and, even at the lower end of the market, packaging transforms the item into an experience as the first touchpoint with the consumer when they are making their choices in store. Ethical, sustainable and vegan do not need to be hair shirts that consumers with a conscience have to wear as a badge of honour. Indeed, too much of a paired back approach to cosmetics
packaging can be seen as virtue signalling by many consumers, who want to enjoy the treat of something special alongside the reassurance that their choice doesn’t compromise their ethical values.
Fortunately, luxury and sustainability do not have to be mutually exclusive. As a printing company with a rich heritage of packaging print for luxury food and confectionery, as well as cosmetics, Herbert Walkers also draws on our greetings cards experience to advise cosmetics brands on sustainable approaches to impactful carton packaging for the products. Whether a product is aimed at a year-round market, or is destined for the lucrative Christmas peak sales period, reflective and metallic boards and finishes are still the bedrock of a pack with consumer appeal. Whereas the drive to demonstrate a commitment to ethics and sustainability caused brands to pull away from metallic boards and foiled finishes for some years, the availability of fully-recyclable metallic boards has seen a return to the consumer literate language of packaging materials that reflect the light and communicate luxury. It is vital that the supply chain – including the brand/product manager, the packaging designer, and both the commercial and technical experts within the printing company - work collaboratively to understand the implications of packaging material choices. Those choices should be consider brand, commercial viability, technical capabilities and sustainability.
It is sustainability that now lies at the heart of this decision making, because eco credentials support both sales and brand loyalty, which
drive commercial success and brand advocacy. Accurate labelling of the pack’s recyclability is vital, because the consumer’s understanding of what can and cannot be recycled is not necessarily up to date. Brands not only need to do the right thing when it comes to sustainability and recyclability; they need to be seen to do the right thing too. It’s also worth remembering that metallic boards and foils are not the only finishes that can be used to premiumise packaging for a luxury look and feel. Texture enhances the pack just as much as visual embellishments so embossing, de-bossing and varnishes can also form part of a packaging design and production strategy that combines consumer appeal with sustainability credentials.
EVOLVING TRENDS
As we approach another festive season, with Christmas 2022 set to be played out against the backdrop of a cost of a living crisis and rising inflation, it will be interesting to see how commercial factors affect decision making on sustainability. Both the costs of packs and the squeeze on consumer buying power could affect trends in packaging design and production choices - if not this year, then certainly when this year’s trends are analysed for next year’s product development.
As buying habits evolve – for both brands and their customers - the expertise of printing companies like Herbert Walkers will be more essential than ever in helping clients make specification choices that reflect brand, commercial and operational considerations.
Xwww.herbertwalkers.co.uk
26
November 2022
www.convertermag.com
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