NEWS


Lucy Reece Raybould, CEO, British Footwear Association (BFA) Y


ou’re not alone if you’re experiencing something akin to political whiplash right now. The headlines about tantrums and takeovers don’t diminish the fact that business is suffering. Costs are up, energy bills are high, and we’re hearing mixed reports of sales. Add to this the recent U-turn on VAT-free shopping for tourists, and it’s not a great time to be on the High Street or in the high-end luxury sector. At the BFA, we are attempting to


recognise and navigate these changes without descending into full-blown despair. Christmas isn’t typically a peak for shoes like in other sectors, but the desire to have fun after a year of chaos may result in comforting spikes in evening and party wear. Plus, the yearning for warmth without central heating could lead to sharply increased sales of slippers and fur- lined boots. It’s not what we would have wished for, but there could be a silver lining in terms of the bottom line.


Speaking of product, we have been catching up with BFA Members about AW22 sales, specifically focusing on winter boot performance. Various retailers and suppliers have expressed concerns about slow sales, which has been exacerbated by mild weather and market uncertainty. However,


there have been promising reactions to casual Western-style ankle boots and fashion-led knee-high boots.


According to our Members, there are instances where knee-high boots are outselling ankle boots, perhaps because they lend themselves better to current fashion trends and/or because consumers are prioritising investment purchases. What’s clear is that retail is tough and, when items are a considered purchase, customers are looking for greater reassurances. We are also receiving encouraging information that trainer sales are holding firm, especially at key price points.


Did you know the BFA is celebrating its 125th anniversary in 2023? Next year, we’ve got significant plans to shake up the footwear space. So keep following us on social media, especially LinkedIn, to hear the news first. And, lastly, the Drapers Footwear Awards 2023 is now open for entries! I am on the judging panel again this year, and seeing your innovation, ideas and successes on paper is one of my annual highlights. Plus, we will be revealing the 50 individuals chosen for our debut BFA Footwear50 in partnership with Micro-Fresh in December. This new initiative is all about championing the footwear industry and showcasing the talented people across all areas of our trade, from manufacturing to retail. Although this winter season looks set to be a difficult one, I hope these small moments of celebration and inspiration will punctuate the gloom and give us all a reason to raise a glass to footwear.


Shoes – An Illustrated Edition by Rebecca Shawcross F


rom chopines to stilettos, Louis XIV to Louboutin, Shoes: An Illustrated History is the definitive guide to footwear. Originally published in 2014, this revised edition expands the classic work to include new content on environmental and sustainability issues, and increased coverage of more diverse, inclusive and contemporary designers – such as Rupert Sanderson, Sophia Webster, Nicolas Kirkwood, Charlotte Olympia, Amina Muaddi, Noritaka Tatehana.


Shoes have always been more than just a


practical necessity. They reveal the culture of the times in which they were worn – the sexual morals, the social power play, as well as the endless shifting of fashion. Rebecca Shawcross


p50 – “Pair of women’s silver and blue brocade latchet shoes, c. 1680” from Shoes: An Illustrated History by Rebecca Shawcross (Bloomsbury). Elephant Book Company Limited


takes the reader on a fascinating journey – packed with social and historical detail – of making and wearing, of the spectacular and the everyday, of conforming and rebelling. Lavishly illustrated with a dazzling array of shoes from all over the world and now including a new closing chapter covering the latest developments in design and technology, the influence of social media and celebrity endorsement, this revision consolidates the book’s position as the leading title of this ultimate object of desire, from antiquity to the present.


Rebecca Shawcross is Senior Shoe Curator at The Shoe Collection, Northampton Museum and Art Gallery, UK.


p9 – “The Dragon shoe, designed and made by Thea Cadabra in 1979” from Shoes: An Illustrated History by Rebecca Shawcross (Bloomsbury). Northampton Museums and Art Gallery


p65 – “Women’s green velvet mules embroidered in silver thread, 1670–89” from Shoes: An Illustrated History by Rebecca Shawcross (Bloomsbury). Elephant Book Company Limited


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p74 – “Women’s rust-coloured, silk damask mules, 1720–50” from Shoes: An Illustrated History by Rebecca Shawcross (Bloomsbury). Elephant Book Company Limited


NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2022 • FOOTWEAR TODAY • 7


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