SIMPLY WILD THE ART OF FINE DINING, IN THE FOREST
Shredded bright white crabmeat, stacked neatly onto a golden, soft springy crumpet, dressed with micro herbs and drops of mango gel and crowned with the caviar, it was a light, fresh and vibrant mouthful of seafood.
On completion the table was cleared, and we’re given time to digest and discuss the dishes delivered so far. It seemed no time before the diver scallop, with cauliflower velouté and XO sauce was placed in front of us. Served in a half shell with matchsticks of apple delicately balanced on top, this was a standout dish for me! As the course suggests, the scallop was selected by hand for its quality and it was cooked to perfection. The cauliflower velouté was totally sublime, combined with the umami flavour and gentle warmth from the XO sauce, and a sweet yet sour bite from the apple, this dish had it all, taste, texture and very clever layers of flavour. I could have easily eaten another four or five?
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After a scenic drive through the Forest of Dean, we parked up at the Railway Drive Car Park, literally a 5-minute stroll from the restaurant. Simply Wild is conveniently located in the town centre, in what was once a traditional tobacconist store and it’s nice to see they’ve respectfully retained the buildings original character and charm.
As we enter, we’re politely greeted by the maître-d Michelle, who with a warm smile shows us to our table by a large bay window, offering views out to the marketplace and its historic clock tower.
The interior feels like a traditional French bistro with a cosy, relaxed and inviting ambiance. Once settled we proceeded to browse the comprehensive drinks menu, where a glass of White wine starts from just £4.50, Rosé £4.70 and Red £4.40 (125ml). There was also a good selection of spirits, liqueurs, coffees & soft drinks, and of course the offer of still or sparkling water.
Soon after, extra cutlery was being laid out in anticipation of the courses to follow, I must mention how comfortable and nicely weighted the cutlery was too. Before long our food began to arrive, firstly the bread course, some of the best rosemary focaccia I’ve eaten, pillow soft inside, fresh and flavourful, served with a delightful, cultured butter, what a great intro.
Then swiftly followed our Canapés, three beautifully presented dishes, carefully placed in front of us, each one explained clearly and in detail by Michelle, as were all of the courses!
The onion & thyme velouté with croutons was a small cup of joy, warm & silky with that satisfying crunch from the crispy croutons bringing the texture.
The beef tartare croustade, with pickled mustard seeds and black garlic was stunningly presented and balanced the delicate flavour of tartare with the bitterness from the mustard seed. The crab crumpet with fennel jam, mango gel and Avruga caviar was again presented like a fine, intricate piece of art.
Next came the main event, fillet of beef, Aligot potato, Roscoff onion purée, crispy brisket, tarragon mayonnaise and hen of the wood. The fillet of beef was cooked medium rare, the pulled crispy brisket croquette brought the texture while a refined purée added sweetness. All components on the plate combined together perfectly and made for a well-balanced, nicely portioned main dish, absolutely delicious.
Pre-desert followed, Pear, Pear, Pear which I was a bit dubious about as I’ve never been a big fan of Pear! However, this has potentially opened my mind to selecting more pear deserts in future. Served in a glass consisting of a layer of pear infused set cream with a layer of pear candied crumble and a quenelle of pear sorbet, almost like a small pudding entrée and pallet cleansing course rolled into one. Finally, after being advised there would be a 15min wait, which is to be expected came the rhubarb soufflé, rhubarb sorbet and rhubarb consommé.
The picture perfect risen Soufflé, dusted with icing powder and piping hot then arrived, we couldn’t help but immediately dive into the centre of it to release that sweet, scented steam, then temper the heat with the cold sorbet and drizzle in some very Indulgent consommé, the perfect way to end the meal.
Chef Michael Fowler and his small professional team have brought a relaxed, quality fine dining experience to the Forest of Dean. His vast experience, skill and passion to his craft is clear to see, in the .presentation, flavours and textures of his plates The use of fresh, high-quality ingredients, be it foraged or locally sourced wherever possible is very admirable. Delivering food and service at this level at this price point is truly remarkable, especially these days!
I can only highly recommend you visit and experience Simply Wild for yourselves. Review by David Neades (February 2025 - Lunchtime 5 course set menu £59.00)
Simplywildrestaurant.co.uk 3 Market Place, Coleford, Forest of Dean. GL16 8AQ T: 01594 715815
LIVE24-SEVEN.COM
WINING & DINING S IMPLY WI LD
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