selves to tree trunks to save the grebe, I’m rooting for the protesters. You don’t need deckle edges on your shelves to be glad that they exist. I fancy that Spear’s readers will, on the whole, number among those with the broad- ness of spirit to share that view – not to mention including a few cultivated souls of a bibliophilic bent who will positively revel in the deckle edge. The deckle edge, be it never so minority an interest, is a thing that gives the books of today a subtle but classy connection to the books of the past – those rough-edged signatures, those bare ruin’d quires – that your 18th-century gent would have gently cut with a paper-knife as he progressed through his book. Its vanishing as if it had never been, we can count as a little victory for the forces of ignorance, and a small but telling step in the direction of an algo-directed publishing monoculture. I’m told Mr Bezos and his minions have some unsound views on ‘French flaps’, too; but I think that’s probably something best left uninvestigated. S



Anna Solomon

BOBBI BROWN’S New Jersey annex/studio is your quintessential beauty tycoon’s New Jersey annex/studio: exposed brick, a Union Jack-em- blazoned chesterfield sofa and a Labrador. Brown fits the part too: boldly accessorised, fashionably bespectacled and very American. Our video call started with a lot of rustling, PRs jumping on and off and me saying ‘Hello?’ into the void for about 20 seconds. Chaos grad- ually abated. ‘I love Zoom! Not really,’ said the

beauty entrepreneur who founded an epony- mous make-up brand. ‘Hey guys, how are ya? I’m moving over here because I hate side light.’ Also calling in, from Italy, was contempo-

rary artist Endless, a favourite of Brown’s. He was a perfect foil. Reserved and enigmatic, he wore a black T-shirt but not his trademark face-covering (even before Covid he would never appear in pictures without the bottom half of his face obscured). ‘How should I refer to you?’ I asked. ‘Endless is fine,’ said Endless. Brown discovered Endless on a trip to Lon- don with her husband. ‘It was a crazy work week, and I usually leave one day for messing around because I love London. I was walking around and on all the sides of the buildings were these Endless graphics and I said to my husband, “I love this stuff, I want to check it out!” The next day I went to the gallery and fell in love. When I got home I called and bought a piece, I think I own four of them now.’ Endless started as a street artist, hoping to

get noticed after graduating from art school and realising that it had taught him nothing about converting his talent into business: ‘Street art is free advertising. If you hit the right spots at the right time, you can get the exact viewers that you want,’ he said. ‘That’s why I always used to put it in West London and Central London.’ One day, the then-managing director of Lib-

Bobbi Brown

erty London, Ed Burstell, happened to spot some of Endless’s work in West London, and was impressed (coincidentally, Burstell and Brown are close friends and discovered their joint passion for Endless over tea at Brown’s apartment). Endless was invited to decorate the Liberty storefront and secured an exhibi- tion soon after. ‘It’s all just spiralled from there. Now I’m doing shows all over the world.’ His work retains a graffitied feel, depicting themes of celebrity culture and consumerism. Brown’s enthusiasm for it is infectious. One of the pieces she owns is the bright pink ‘Lizzy Vuitton’ (acrylic and spray paint on canvas of the Queen wearing Louis Vuitton). ‘The art just makes me feel good,’ said Brown. ‘It’s the colour explosion and the juxtaposition of subjects – a combination of these bright neons with things that I love. It actually calls to this crazy brain.’ But Brown isn’t just a fan; the art influences her work, too. ‘Being a full-on visual person, I don’t really care about words. As a creative, there’s nothing like things that inspire you, whether it’s colours, art, fashion. Beauty and art have always worked together.’ In this spirit, Brown is getting Endless on- board with her new venture: Jones Road

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