T RIED AND TE ST E D LONDON RES T A UR A NT S
Rochelle Canteen at the ICA
LONDON’S BEST
NEGRONIS
Bombay Bustle
◆B AR TERMINI Bartender Tony
This new branch of an iconic Shoreditch restaurant has taken root in the events space, gallery and cinema that is the Institute of Contemporary Arts on The Mall. The ICA has attracted generations of bohemians for its avant-garde events and still does. Life imitates art with the canteen’s blank-canvas look; the menu is equally unembellished. Rabbit and bacon pie comprised a vast
pastry lid stretched over a family-sized dish, browned and pitted from the baking; the meat within was well-flavoured and hearty. The ox cheek with pickled walnut and
celeriac mash wasn’t Instagram-worthy, but the rich flavours were clear, bright and thrilling. Chunks of slow-cooked beef were ethereally light, falling apart at the touch of a fork. The puddings were equally simple. A slice
of quince and almond tart had a moist texture, ideal comfort food for a cold rainy evening.
VERDICT This quirky place is perfect for taking overseas associates who still think British home cooking is dull. It’s nose-to-tail-tastic for dinner with friends too. Guy Dimond
◆CL AR ID GE’ S
A mix of gin, Martini Rubino and Galliano L’Aperitivo, £19
(US$26), served up in a sophisticated Mayfair setting.
claridges.co.uk
Conigliaro’s original Soho bar remains
the best of the two branches. Four types of negroni
each cost £7 (US$9).
bar-termini.com
The team behind the Michelin-starred Jamavar restaurant in Mayfair opened this less expensive branch in November. It’s no less elegant, but has a slightly different focus – the rich pickings of Mumbai’s diverse culinary scene. Misal pao is a breakfast dish of toasted white
bread rolls – introduced by the Portuguese – filled with a spicy bean stew. Bombay Bustle’s take on it is exemplary; the bread rolls were pert, and little details such as the diced onion and lime slice garnish were utterly pukka. Bambaiya ragda are fried potato rissoles in a
chaat of chutney, spices and chopped onions, with a topping of crisp gram-flour noodles. This version had the requisite pairing of sour and sweet notes that are typical of Gujarati snack food. Mumbai’s muslims excel at meat and rice
dishes. The dum nalli biryani here is authentically slow-cooked in a tightly sealed vessel; once the lid is lifted, the aromatic spices waft out and long grains of rice and tender lamb are revealed.
VERDICT The Mumbai menu will be appreciated by those who prefer the authentic flavour of India to its Anglicised counterpart. Guy Dimond
81
◆SUPER LYAN Cocktail
maestro Ryan
HOURS Tue-Sun 11am-11pm
PRICE Starters £1.50-£4.50
(US$2-6); main courses £12-£16 (US$17-22); puddings £6.50-£7
(US$9-10); wines from £5 (US$7) a glass
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om C ONT A C T
The ICA, The Mall, SW1Y 5AH; +44
(0)20 7729 5677; arnoldand
henderson.com
Chetiyawardana’s Bloodshot Negroni, with bourbon and
beef tea (£9/US$12) is deliciously different.
superlyan.com
HOUR S Mon-Sat
12-2.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm
P R ICE
Starters £5-£10 (US$7- 14); main courses £10-18 (US$14-25);
wines from £6 (US$8) a glass
C ONT A C T
29 Maddox Street, W1S 2PA; +44
(0)20 7290 4470; bombaybustle. com
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