CITIES
IMAGES: ALAMY; PETE GODING
G A UTENG
JO’BURG COMES ALIVE
Guided tours of Johannesburg’s uber-cool Maboneng Precinct and vibrant Soweto township confound expectations about crime to reveal a metropolis offering hip hangouts and unmissable history lessons
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“born, bred and buttered” in Soweto. While organised bus trips through the township are popular with tourists, Charles advo- cates for his style of tour. It involves taking to the streets, meeting the locals and tast- ing traditional food. “I tell people it’s not a safari. You should come out of the vehicle,” he says. We stop at Soweto Towers, a brightly dec-
an you feel it? There’s a tangible energy here,” local artist Bon- gani Mathebula rhapsodises on my tour of Maboneng. He waxes lyrical about the urban regen-
eration projects and art scene reclaiming South Africa’s largest city from its notorious — and outdated — reputation for violence. As we explore the Sunday market stalls in Maboneng Precinct, it’s clear we’re some- where special. We skirt an al-fresco drum workshop and head into the Arts on Main complex. This former warehouse was the epicentre of the neighbourhood’s transfor- mation from a no-go zone to a welcoming creative and commercial hub a decade ago. Dancers and musicians showcase their tal-
ents outside trendy brunch spots. Murals and art installations surprise us at each turn. And everyone is smiling. I’m enchanted. “If you’ve only got a weekend in Johan-
nesburg but want to know the direction of the city, Maboneng is the place to come,” Bongani insists. Later, I leave the city centre with its profu- sion of jacaranda trees and drive to the town- ship of Soweto on Johannesburg’s southern periphery. “During apartheid it was unusual to see people of different races gathering in Soweto; the only [white] people that came were the police to cause trouble. Today, everyone is free to roam around.” My guide to Jo’burg is the charismatic Charles Ncube, who was, in his words,
#MEETY OUR SOUTHAFRICA
orated former power station repurposed as an extreme sports attraction. There’s also a bar and shisa nyama (BBQ) grill showcas- ing live music every Sunday. Next up: Lebo’s Backpackers, where we
eat potjiekos (stew cooked in pots over coals) and drink home-brewed umqombothi (home- made sorghum beer) in a funky garden bar. It’s here that I’m introduced to another Soweto native: Thando is a vision of Jo’burg Cool in a red dress and customised pumps, and manages tuk-tuk and bicycle tours from the hostel. We opt for two wheels and set off together to explore the area, with her and Charles riding at the front. We pedal past a raucous wedding celebration, gaggles of skip- ping children, and a bleak shop advertising
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