8 On the trail in Iceland


Walk in the footsteps of Vikings and discover epic geology on the Fimmvörðuháls Trail. Words: Connor McGovern


Situated between two glaciers in southern Iceland, the Fimmvörðuháls Trail is one of the country’s most popular walking routes.


Skógafoss T is waterfall over a 200ft cliff is fed by two glaciers and is a popular fi shing spot in summer. On clear days, rainbows form in its billowing mists. According to legend, a Viking named T rasi buried a treasure chest behind the falls over a thousand years ago. Local men went looking for the treasure in the 17th century, but only managed to retrieve the chest’s ring handle, which can now be seen at the church in nearby Skógar.


Skógá River Set off on the trail proper and wend your way along the Skógá River for around fi ve miles. Follow the river as it cuts through the dramatic landscape, broken up by scores of waterfalls. T ere’s a fairly gentle increase in gradient — all the better to admire the gorge’s crystal-clear water, wildfl ower meadows and dazzlingly green grass from above. Take time to savour the views, with only fellow hikers and hardy sheep for company.


Under the gaze of Útigönguhöfdi, a near-perfect volcanic cone, the canyon twists round and meets T órsmörk, a vast, birch-dotted valley formed by the confl uence of three glacial rivers.


WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY


Take your photography to the next level this year with the best gear for capturing animals in the wild. Words: Nori Jemil


1 Nikon Nikkor AF-S telephoto


lens 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR You’ll need around 300mm of focal length for distant subjects, so the Nikkor 200-500mm is a great option at the lower end of the price range. It benefi ts from Nikon’s superior optical technology, and will suit dedicated novice photographers who need a hand-held option. £1,299. nikon.co.uk


2 Lee Filters LEE100 Polariser


Neutral density and ultraviolet fi lters help to control over-exposure, while polarising fi lters add contrast to skies and remove water refl ections. By attaching the holder and turning the fi lter, you can choose the effect you want. £209. leefi lters.com


3 Nikon D850 Digital SLR


With 45.4 million pixels, Nikon’s full-frame D850 is a weather-sealed workhorse for any terrain. Its detailed resolution and speed are ideal for fast- moving subjects. £2,699. nikon.co.uk


4 Arc’teryx Zeta SL


Minimalist in design and with a lifetime warranty, the waterproof Zeta is packed with clever fabrics and design touches that ensure optimum protection against the elements while shooting. It’s super-lightweight (hence the ‘SL’ in the name) and can pack down easily for any photography adventure. £280. arcteryx.com


3 5 1 2 4 5 Gitzo Légende Traveler


Tripod Weighing only 1.45kg, this sleek carbon fi bre tripod has a payload of 8kg, meaning it can support larger lenses while offering stability. Its 165cm maximum height is offset by a short column that enables low shots. At just 43cm when closed, it’s also very easy to carry around. £572.99. gitzo.com


6 Lowepro Whistler Backpack


450 AW II Big enough to fi t a pro DSLR and multiple lenses, this backpack unzips fully to reveal expandable compartments for all your photographic kit, making it easy to grab gear on the go. £289. lowepro.com


7 Craghoppers NosiLife


Adventure II Long-Sleeved Shirt This light shirt has four pockets and uses bug-repellent and anti-odour technology to keep you cool and fresh in the heat. The neutral sand or moss colours will make you less likely to scare away the wildlife, too. £39. craghoppers.com


8 LensCoat LensSack Pro Bean


Bag RealTree Advantage Max 4 With its U-shaped design and heavy duty materials, this beanbag will take the weight of a telephoto lens hooked over the door of a safari four-wheel-drive vehicle. It also has a removable, aluminium mounting plate with which to attach a tripod head. £141.99. lenscoat.com


Baldvinsskáli After crossing the bridge over the Skógá, the scenery shifts dramatically into a stark moonscape of rock and gravel. T is plateau is home to some of the newest volcanic landscapes in the world, including the aftermath of nearby Eyjafjallajökull, which erupted in 2010. If you’re breaking up the route over two days, bed down at the Baldvinsskáli mountain hut — a useful stopping point before the next legs.


Magni and Módi Push on up through the Fimmvörðuháls Pass, where the route reaches its highest altitude of around 3,300ft above sea level. T is is a challenging section, but there are incredible sights to behold — the 2010 eruption created two new mountains, Magni and Módi. T ese are some of the youngest


geological features on the planet, so it’s worth a detour to Módi, whose rocky slopes off er truly breathtaking views.


Godaland Like a divine vision, the barren, volcanic landscape begins to return to green as you descend into Godaland — which means ‘land of the Gods’ in Icelandic. Hike across a vast plateau, surrounded by peaks, or descend via mossy canyons. T ese off er a slightly shorter but more technical route, and you’ll teeter along rocky ridges and narrow cliff side passes as the Hvanná River winds like a serpent through a lush gorge.


Thórsmörk Under the gaze of Útigönguhöfdi, a near-perfect volcanic cone, the canyon twists round and meets T órsmörk, a vast, birch-dotted valley formed by the confl uence of three glacial rivers. Básar marks the end of the hike, but adventurers may want to carry on: this is the southern start of the Laugavegur Trail to the glacial, hot springs area of Landmannalaugar. Alternatively, you can pick up local transport back towards Reykjavík.


First published in the April 2022 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read the feature in full online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel


SKOGAFOSS WATERFALL, SOUTHERN ICELAND/GETTY FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS HIKING ROUTE/GETTY


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