THE TRAVEL GUIDE DISTRIBUTED WITH
12TH JUNE 2023
Worldwide Traveller 15
Sample exceptional cacao Te best place to taste heirloom chocolate might just be in its cradle. In 2018, new archaeological discoveries retraced the known origins of cacao from Central America to the upper Amazon basin, in modern-day Ecuador. Traces of cacao found on artefacts by the Mayo Chinchipe people, including stone mortars, ceramic bowls and jars, now suggest cacao trees had been domesticated as early as 5,300 years ago — some 1,500 years earlier, and 1,400 miles further south, than previously suggested. Te discovery reignited the
country’s pride in this sweet delicacy, with a host of chocolate tours and tastings around Ecuador to indulge visitors. In Quito, visitors can join single-origin and tree-to-bar tastings at specialists such as República de Cacao, To’ak and Pacari. Te former in particular works closely with communities, developing fine and sustainable cacao at source and using only unrefined panela sugar; with chef Santiago Cueva offering bespoke workshops at the Chocolate Boutique in the historic old town. Tose after an immersive bean- to-product plantation adventure, meanwhile, can book a tour with El Quetzal in the Andean village of Mindo. Chocolate lovers shouldn’t miss
the chance to try the country’s fine aroma cacao, also known as Arriba or Nacional. Once considered to be extinct following an outbreak of plant disease, this rare, ancient and endemic variety grows in Manabí and is widely seen as having the finest quality in the world. What’s more, it traces its lineage to those first domesticated trees.
Try Ecuadorian craft beer Being the first to domesticate cacao is not Ecuador’s only claim to the culinary record book. Te country was also the first in the Americas to house a beer brewery, all the way back in the 16th century — and in a convent at that. Tanks to the thirst of a Flemish monk who brought grains along with him to South America, clergymen were able to produce and consume beer at Quito’s San Francisco Convent — which also happens to be the country’s oldest Christian monument — for more than 500 years. A short hiatus in the 1970s brought this brewing dynasty to an end, but following a restoration project, Cervecería Antigua reopened to visitors. Fast-forward to the 21st century,
and the craft beer scene is having a moment in the country. Around 15 years ago, a few Quiteños started experimenting with the process, inspired by the success the movement was experiencing in North America. Over the last 10 years, Ecuador’s craft brewing scene has grown exponentially, with the Association of Craft Brewers of Ecuador now having around 100 associates to show for it. One of the early pioneers was
Santana Brewing Company, founded by brothers Pedro and Sebastián Navarro in 2012. Teir Quito brewery along the Equator line offers pints of Irish red, amber, pale ale and the Belgian-Ecuadorian blend chulla chela, as well as seasonal IPAs and porters, all produced using rainwater to ensure a unique Ecuadorian identity. For something different, chicha madre is an indigenous fermented drink made from cassava mixed with barley.
Visit Guayaquil’s seafood spots Te port city of Guayaquil is located on the River Guayas, close to the Pacific Ocean, and is the place to tuck into the freshest seafood. One of the country’s largest hubs, it serves specialities including ceviches (a favourite in Ecuador as much as it is Peru) made with marinated raw fish, or encebollado (yellowfin tuna stew) for a heartier alternative. One table to book is at Marrecife
Marisquería, led by chef Ivan Grain, who cooks up a delicious grilled octopus. At Red Crab, there’s only one thing to try — and you can probably guess what it is. Order guariche (as red crab is known locally) para martillar to smash out the delicious white meat with a wooden mallet; or encocado, either in a coconut sauce, or in a salad with the quinoa super grain. La Cevichévere, led by sisters Gabriela and Maria Fernanda Cepeda, offers a hipster experience in the Centro neighbourhood, with its traditional menu with contemporary twists.
Join a cooking class Tose tempted to try and remake any of these Ecuadorian delicacies back home, a good start is to take a cooking class or two. Visitors heading to beautiful
Cuenca, a 16th-century city high in the country’s Andes, can learn how to cook quinoa soup and ceviche from a local family. Te class is organised by Cuenca Bestours and includes a trip to pick fresh ingredients at the 10 de Agosto market. Over in city of Quito, meanwhile, Maria on the Traveling Spoon chefs’ platform shares her mother’s traditional recipes in an intimate experience — one of numerous classes in the capital city.
Chefs around the country pick from a pantry that spans the Amazon in the southeast, the Pacific coast in the west and the Andes down the middle
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