images: alamy; OLGA MAKAROVA; Francesco Lastrucci; Tommaso Porporini
FLORENCE
FOOD & DRINK Florence may be celebrated for art, but its culinary scene is equally deserving of attention. Tuscan cuisine is famously uncomplicated, relying on simple yet exceptional local produce, olive oil, seasonal vegetables and quality meats rather than elaborate techniques or complex processes. Mornings begin at elegant cafes where
locals can be seen perched at marble counters enjoying a fortifying espresso beneath chandeliers and mirrored walls. Historic cafes such as Caffè Gilli and Rivoire on Piazza della Signoria remain institutions of daily Florentine life, serving pastries and thick Italian hot chocolate in settings that have barely changed for generations. The city’s food culture revolves around
tradition. Florentine steak — bistecca alla Fiorentina — is perhaps the region’s most iconic dish. Cut thick from prized Chianina cattle and cooked fairly swiftly over charcoal to keep the meat rare, it’s typically shared between diners and accompanied only by olive oil, beans or roasted potatoes. I’Brindellone is a great place to try it. The city’s markets provide another
essential glimpse into local life. Mercato Centrale, housed inside a magnificent 19th-century iron-and-glass building, offers everything from truffle-laced pecorino cheese and fresh pasta to wild boar salami and seasonal porcini mushrooms. Upstairs, contemporary food stalls introduce visitors to regional specialties in a more casual setting, while downstairs remains wonderfully authentic — the vast majority of traders have worked there for decades. Wine plays a central role in Tuscan
culture, and Florence sits close to some of Italy’s most prestigious vineyards. Chianti classico, brunello di bontalcino and other Tuscan wines appear on menus throughout the city. Exploring medieval laneways to find small, secluded wine bars and sample their vintages alongside cured meats and aged cheeses is time well spent.
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One of Florence’s most charming
traditions is the wine window, or buchetta del vino. These tiny arched openings carved into Renaissance palaces were historically used to sell wine directly to passersby. Many have recently reopened, offering glasses of chianti through centuries-old stone windows — a fun fusion of history and hospitality. Florence’s contemporary dining
scene is also flourishing, particularly in neighborhoods slightly removed from the main tourist areas. In San Niccolò, one of the city’s prettiest districts beneath Piazzale Michelangelo, Floret has become a favorite for elegant breakfasts, seasonal lunches and beautifully presented aperitivi served in a garden-like setting filled with flowers and soft natural light. Nearby, Melaleuca Florence brings an Antipodean influence, pairing specialty coffee with refined brunch dishes and freshly baked pastries that have earned a loyal following among locals and international visitors alike. Luxury dining in Florence has evolved
significantly in recent years. Michelin- starred restaurants now reinterpret Tuscan classics with contemporary flair, while still honoring regional ingredients. Enoteca Pinchiorri is a must for the Michelin crowd. Yet some of the city’s most memorable meals are found in unassuming trattorias where menus change daily and recipes have been passed down through the generations. No visit is complete without gelato.
Florentines take their gelato seriously, favoring natural colors and seasonal flavors over towering artificial displays. Pistachio, fig and ricotta and dark chocolate infused with Tuscan olive oil are among the city’s more sophisticated offerings. Dining is never rushed. Meals often
last hours, accompanied by animated conversation, careful perusal of the wine list and close scrutiny of the menu. For visitors, it becomes less about eating and more about participating in the rhythm of the city itself.
Mornings begin at elegant cafes where locals can be seen perched at marble counters enjoying a fortifying espresso beneath chandeliers and mirrored walls
Clockwise from top left: Caffè Rivoire in Piazza della Signoria Square; a delicate cake at Caffè Gilli, the oldest cafe in Florence; Bar Perseo in Piazza della Signoria; one of the tables in Floret, a popular restaurant in the San Niccolò district
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