8 Te Travel Guide Craving for Courmayeur


With Mont Blanc as its backdrop, this elegant Italian mountain town has plenty for both winter sport enthusiasts and gourmands to sink their teeth into. Words: Neil English


Promotional Content • Saturday 28 January 2023


The view of Mont Blanc from Entrèves PHOTOGRAPH: KAROLINA WIERCIGROCH


crystallised magma towers right over your resort, as it does in Courmayeur, you have some genuine bragging rights. Te glacier-clad force of nature straddles the border between France and Italy and, at 15,774ft, claims a hat-trick of superlatives: the highest point in Italy, the Alps and the entire EU. Futuristic cable-cars ferry all comers from Courmayeur to Punta Helbronner, one of 11 peaks along the Mont Blanc Massif. A platform at 11,370ft gives


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incredible views of the southeast face of Monte Bianco (as Mont Blanc is known in Italy). Vast ice flows cascade toward France and Italy, with ice pinnacles the size of houses and crevasses 600ft deep. Punta Helbronner is also the starting point of the world-renowned off-piste ski run, the Vallée Blanche. Courmayeur’s panoramic stardust is paralleled by its culinary flair, a highlight of which is aperitivo time, where drinks often come with free snacks at many bars along the pedestrianised high street, Via Roma. Furthermore, the region’s food festivals see local and international chefs from Michelin- starred restaurants showcasing the absolute best of mountain cuisine. Here’s how to have an unforgettable weekend in Courmayeur.


Hit the slopes Start the day with a protein load of a fried eggs and prosciutto at three-star, family-run Hotel Bouton d’Or. Owner Patrizia also bakes pastries for the breakfast buffet. Husband Andrea shuttles guests to the cable-car or gondola at nearby Dolonne. If renting ski equipment, wear suitable footwear for apres-ski. Both lifts arrive at the ski hub of Plan Checrouit, where you’ll find meeting places for ski schools, a


kiers in the Alps frequently like to boast of Mont Blanc views. Even distant ones. So, when the herculean hunk of


choice of restaurants with great views and the convenient Ski In rental shop with overnight storage for skis and boots. Te 60 miles of ski terrain across the Checrouit and Val Veny sectors has predominantly wide easy blue and red runs, but guides or instructors are advisable to explore the steeper slopes off the Youla or Arp cable-cars. Strong intermediate skiers can


time an hour-long, noon descent from Youla cable-car, through the Vesses couloir with views over Val Veny and Miage glacier, to arrive in time for lunch on the Zerotta plateau. Te north-facing aspect preserves snow quality over the 3,200 vertical feet of ski terrain, with moguls carved into the narrower stretches of the couloir. Just before the plateau, near Zerotta’s chairlift, bacon-like aromas tantalise the taste buds. Suckling pigs roast over the fire pit on the terrace


Courmayeur’s panoramic stardust is paralleled by its culinary flair, a highlight of which is aperitivo time, where drinks often come with


free snacks at many bars along the pedestrianised Via Roma, while food


festivals showcase the best mountain cuisine


A charcuterie plate served at La Chaumière bistro PHOTOGRAPH: KAROLINA WIERCIGROCH


of Capitan des Alpes. Tis dish is a favourite of Heston Blumenthal, co-curator of Courmayeur’s annual Mountain Gourmet Ski Experience. Veggie offerings include chestnut and blue cheese gnocchi or fondue of nettle ravioli. Te cable-car back to


Courmayeur’s resort base runs until midnight, so on-mountain apres-ski is de rigueur. Bust some moves to live music on the Super G terrace at Plan Checrouit. Te party scene suits all ages. For something a little less demanding on the legs, sit back and sip an Aperol spritz on the terrace of chic La Loge du Massif. Heaters and sumptuous chairs with sheepskin throws make watching the sun set over the Gran Paradiso National Park a luxury. As the afterglow fades across these Pennine Alps, head inside to the fireplace, and perhaps grab a dinner menu; wild boar ragu is the number one dish here.


Fun away from the ski run Let the dogs out Professional dog sledder Fabrizio Lovati introduces guests to his team of Alaskan huskies before riding sessions where you learn to control three or four dogs at exhilarating speed along a forested snow track in Val Veny: an experience few forget. dogsledman.com


Freeride descent to Vallée Blanche PHOTOGRAPH: GIUSEPPE DI MAURO


Up, up and away Heli-skiing isn’t just for experts; guides in Courmayeur can tailor descents for strong intermediates. And with heli-ski banned in France, this is a discerning choice for those seeking Mont Blanc thrills. Adrenaline kicks in during the safety briefing, increasing as the chopper engine fires up. On landing, passengers scramble into the snow to huddle, mouths wide open as they take in the silent remoteness of a frozen world 13,000ft up on the Mont Blanc Massif. And then it’s


out into the big, untouched beyond. heli-guides.com/en/destinations/ courmayeur-mont-blanc


Off-piste in Vallée Blanche Guides give all skiers a harness, safety transceivers and probes to tackle this 13-mile-long, off-piste, bucket list descent. Te vertical drop of 8,200ft is strewn with crevasses often concealed by snow bridges. Mountain guides are essential. Te cross border, return trip to Chamonix, including Skyway to Punta Helbronner, descent via Mer du Glace, plus taxi back from France via Mont Blanc tunnel, takes around six hours. Te route is accessible for strong intermediate skiers. Remember to pack your passport. guidecourmayeur.com


Soothe in thermal springs Natural thermal waters sourced from the surrounding mountains have soothed body and mind in Pré St Didier since Roman times. A €30 (£28) taxi ride to QC Terme is the perfect antidote to the rigours of skiing where thermal facilities, aromatherapy and mud pools, along with hydromassage tubs, work magic on achy joints. Tere are saunas, heated pools both indoors and outside, and relaxation rooms with magnificent views of Monte Bianco. Little wonder skiers flock here from all Aostan resorts. qcterme.com


Sky-high fine dining A spring weekend utopia for lovers of skiing and fine food, one of Peak of Taste’s blue riband events takes place from 16-19 March 2023. Te likes of Marcus Wareing and Paul Ainsworth have appeared in previous years; Clare Smyth is already confirmed for 2023. momentumski.com


Published in the 2022/23 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK) Winter Sports. Read more at nationalgeographictraveller.co.uk/travel


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