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Viewpoints TOP THREE


SIERRA ESPUÑA This enchanting woodland region, home to nearly 500 species of butterfly, was once a barren land, but has been reforested over the past century. Follow the trail leading up to Morrón de Alhama, surviving a few jaw- dropping steep climbs, to be rewarded with sweeping views of the countryside amid elm and pine trees.


CASTILLO DE JUMILLA Panoramic views of the vineyards in Jumilla, one of the region’s top wine- producing towns, unfold the higher you climb on the trail leading up to this ancient castle. It’s an ideal introduction to the wine- making landscape ahead of a day of cellar tastings in Murcia’s Jumilla area.


CABO DE PALOS LIGHTHOUSE Take in some of the finest views of the Mediterranean Sea and Europe’s largest saltwater lagoon at Mar Menor from this 167ft-high lighthouse, originally a lighthouse-keeper’s school, on the esplanade in the pretty harbour town of Cabo de Palos.


DAY ONE SAINTS & CITY STROLLING


Morning Wander through the narrow alleyways of Murcia’s old town, towards the magnificent Catedral de Murcia, which has the second-tallest bell tower in Spain. Audio guides can be hired for a history lesson on the church’s eclectic blend of baroque, Renaissance and gothic architecture. Exit through the ‘Door of the Apostles’, carved with angels and kings from the Old Testament, to reach Calle Traperia. A hub for fabric merchants and silversmiths in the 14th century, it’s now peppered with boutique shops. From here, it’s an easy walk to the city’s 19th-century Romea Theatre. Legend has it that a friar cursed the building, as it stands on the site of a former convent. catedralmurcia.org


Afternoon The region is nicknamed the ‘Garden of Europe’ due to its fertile soil and extensive farmlands — the produce of which can be seen at Mercado de Veronicas. Browse the market’s seasonal fruit and veg — peaches and melons in summer, artichokes in autumn — and local seafood such as jumbo Carabinero prawns, sea bream and sea bass. A number of small canteens in the market will cook or grill your chosen fish while you sip on a café cortado. After lunch, visit the Royal Casino — not a gambling den, but a former gentlemen’s club. Built in 1847, it’s designated a National Historical Building. The €5 (£4.30) entry fee allows you to admire its Moorish-style foyer, chandelier- hung ballroom and frescoes. realcasinomurcia.com


Evening Before dusk, take a 15-minute drive south of the city up to the Sanctuary of La Fuensanta, a magnificent hillside church set amid orange and pomegranate trees, housing the patron saint of Murcia. It’s a great spot to admire views of the city as the sky turns amber and pink, but don’t miss the fine baroque details inside, including gold-plated Corinthian columns and frescoes depicting Murcian folklore. For dinner, head back to the city to grab an outdoor table in El Secreto in Plaza de Las Flores — a lively square dotted with flower stalls and restaurants, with a small central fountain. Order a beer and join the locals snacking on tapas such as pulpo al horno (baked octopus) while listening to accordion players who busk in the squares.


From left: Murcia’s 15th-century cathedral; the Segura River runs through the historic centre of Murcia city


MARCH 2024 47


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